how to add relay advice on 48V precedent

[scubabud]

My wife just reminded me that we also shut the cart down but leave the Holiday lights on via the inverter in the accessory plug, (Halloween, Christmas, etc. when we're camping at the parks stopped and parked so pulling the key out is necessary.) Now I guess I remember why I did it that way in the first place... LOL

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by dplin2001

Don't you have to worry about the current draw? maybe the key switch can't handle the current of the acess.??

I use a different key all together but that isn't an issue.

[FIXEROFCARTS]

all your doing is closing positive to the relay so that it closes, the relay does all the work.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Think of a relay as a remote controlled on/off switch, and think of your keyswitch as the remote.
FIXEROFCARTS is right... Don't worry about putting too much load on the keyswitch... Most converters that I have seen actually have an on/off wire which completely eliminates the need for a relay at all... But if you don't have that wire I'll be glad to explain how to hook a relay up to the keyswitch... Get a 48 Volt charger relay and mount it behind the dash. Run a wire from the Blue side of the keyswitch to one of the two small posts of the relay. Doesn't matter which one. Run another wire from the other small post to the B- post on your controller or main negative post of the battery pack (The same wire the OBC wire hooks to) This completes the control circuit that turns the relay on and off with the keyswitch. Now for the power circuit. I'm guessing that the converter you've got came with a fused 48V positive input wire. Hook that wire to one of the large posts on the relay, and run a wire from the other large post to the converter where the main positive wire is intended to go. This will allow the relay to switch the inverter on and off with the keyswitch.

[dplin2001]

Thanks for all the help, I'm looking at the instructions for my 48 to 12 reducer. It show +-B and +-12v, it connects directly to the pack and the only fuses are on the accessories connected to the reducer. I'm thinking that it would be better to have everything work when the switch is on. I would think the reducer would draw some power from the pack 24/7 if I set it up the way the instructions show it.

[Offtwice]

Originally Posted by scubabud

I use a different key all together but that isn't an issue.

Scuba, I just bought that switch but have no instructions?! Have any insight on how you hooked it up?

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by Offtwice

Scuba, I just bought that switch but have no instructions?! Have any insight on how you hooked it up?

There is only 2 leads... and it doesn't matter which one goes to which. Just use the 2 leads from your NEW switch and splice them into the two from the CC switch. If you feel better use the red wire from the new switch and match that to the constant hot from your CC switch.

[Offtwice]

Originally Posted by scubabud

There is only 2 leads... and it doesn't matter which one goes to which. Just use the 2 leads from your NEW switch and splice them into the two from the CC switch. If you feel better use the red wire from the new switch and match that to the constant hot from your CC switch.

It appears mine is a little different, it has three leads. It appears it has off, ign and light. Hmmmmm an all red, red w/ black stripe and red w/ grey stripe. Guess I will hook red to hot and check the rest with key.

[scubabud]

Originally Posted by Offtwice

It appears mine is a little different, it has three leads. It appears it has off, ign and light. Hmmmmm an all red, red w/ black stripe and red w/ grey stripe. Guess I will hook red to hot and check the rest with key.

Not sure what cart you have but... if your ignition key now is 48v or 36v your lights won't like that jolt of voltage once you switch it over to lights... unless you plan on using that position as the converter main Input voltage from your switch.