79? EZGO gas marathon

[kameljoe21]

Here what i know

3 wheel Marathon

Model and serial Number
79H05
180178(I80I7 From what i have read the numbers may appear to look like an I

Robin Engine 244CC ( found it on the label, rest of the info is peeled off )
No oil injection in it, i now know what the little hose that is coming off the top of the carb is for ( at least im sure that what it is )

This cart has been sitting for at least 2 yrs and from what i told has been sitting on and off for the last 10 yrs

When i got this cart, i installed a pretty good size Battery from a broken down truck that i have , it is on the side that the oil tank would have been, and this is where the old no good one was

It starts but you have to play with the choke for a while, ( this is how i know it is carb problems or i wouldn't have traded for it ) Once home with a friend i removed the carb and used a can of carb cleaner, cleaned and dissembled it and reassembled it, all parts are in good condition ( i would know i have cleaned a lot of carbs on a lot of things ) replaced the carb, reconnected the choke, and throttle. ran good for a bit and started to act like it did before, so i re-cleaned it and cleaned the air filter and hose and all casings and made sure all is good. now it runs pretty good.

Now my problem are minor

number 1
i have seen on some pic that there are 3 lines going to the throttle and one for the choke
i have the choke, gas and another wire(on the throttle) that goes down to the rear end just in front of it and right now it does nothing, im not sure what this is
and what the 3rd wire is for

number 2

grease points
i have found 2 one being just above the front end steering part
the 2nd is on the steering shaft

is there any other ones

number 3

when getting to top end speeds and at other times the rear end makes a rumble to a whines type noise
i checked the rubber plug on the rear end and it has oil in it just about 1/4 inch below the bottom of the hole ( it is slightly dark )
i dont see a drain plug i want to change the oil... im not sure but from what i have read it takes 30W SAE
on the top of the rear end tucked in the corner is some type of cap or something like that i cant pull it off but it wiggles a little, not sure what this is

number 4

clutch and pulley adjustments

number 5

how fast should this go
what is the payload that it can pull or haul
any stats that would go with this would be nice
edit
will bigger tires make it go faster ??
thanks
Joe

im a proud owner of a whole lot of Junk from carts dirtbikes, 3 wheelers, tractors, wood working tools, kilns, chain saws and just about anything else you can think of including my own flat grill and char grill in my kitchen

[littlecarguy]

number 1 - The caable going to the rear end is the govenor. It pulls back on the throttle when you reach max rpm. It sounds like yours has been disabled as most old carts have been. Just beware that over reving this engine is very harmful.

[Dave Box]

Hello Camel Toe,
It looks like you have a 1978 model fitted with the early 2PG engine which is good as 1PG parts are all gone.

First off a little history on your cart -In 1976 the so-called '2pg'--a 244cc, Fuji Heavy Industries/Robin Engine--with an internal starter generator (st/gen), became standard. Repair parts are still available except for the crankshaft assembly, the voltage regulator/starter relay and the internal st/gen stator & field.

-In 1980, an external, Hitachi brand starter generator was introduced and the engine was modified. The crank bearings, drive clutch, point set & condenser, voltage regulator and the engine frame all changed.

-1981 ushered in an electronic ignition system, which did away with the golf carts point set & condenser altogether, and the point activator lobe on the crankshaft soon went away too. Except for the addition of an oil injection system, this engine went virually unchanged until 1989 when the 3pg golf cart engine replaced it. Although the two engines are similar, many parts are very different. As you will see above your engine did not have the oil injection system, the pipe from the top of your carburetor will be the breather tube for the float bowl.

Now to your specific points.

The three cables that you have seen are the throttle, the oil injector and the governor. On your model there should be no oiler (this was introduced in the 80's) As the little cart guy states the probability is that someone has removed the governor cable. I also have removed mine as I consider it to be just another complication. Now if your cart is going to be driven by small children or drunken chums I would recommend that you reinstall it, especially in light of the fact that a three wheeler is not that stable at high speeds.

With regard to the grease points, I have the manual for your cart in pdf format. I will willingly email you a copy providing you make a donation (any amount you think appropriate) to this forum, and that is the best help you will ever get

To drain the differential you will need to remove the rear plate, clean off the old gasket and use mastic to seal the plate (gaskets are impossible to find). You should use SAE 80 - 90 (SAE 30 is for electric carts) and fill to the level of the plug.

There is nothing that you an do with the drive clutch. If it works be happy, if not buy a new one. You can get parts for the driven clutch but to be frank replacing it is a nice option. Of course if it all works just leave it alone. (Be aware the whining noise could also be a clutch).

Finally you cart was set by the factory to max out at 12mph, this is probably why the governor was removed. Many of us here have installed a cheapy rev counter found on ebay, now you can keep your revs to an acceptable limit which on your cart is 5000.
Bigger tire will obviously make it run faster but you will need a lift kit (are they even made for a three wheeler?) and you will trade off torque and climbing ability for speed. This you can compensate for by using a shorter drive belt.
All the best
Dave

[kameljoe21]

ok thanks for the info

I did some more research last night and did the following
i watch the you tube vid one rebuilding a cart engine and the diagnostics of one
i removed the muffler and pipe and checked my piston and the rings, all seems to be in good conditions there is no movement and the rings look to be solid, i will get the compression test done in the next day, my gauge was crushed while i was working on a portable welder, those drunken people you all talk about. LOL
i ran the cart for about 30 sec with out the pipe attached to it and boy its loud and the power it has while on floor jacks
i inspected the pipe and seems to be in tack, as the same as the gastic seem to be newish looking
the muffler seems to have a little debris in it, i shake it and tapped it and reinstalled it and ran it while placing my hand there and could feel a little bit of stuff came out

i also checked and found that the cover for the flywheel is no longer there and thats why the governor is not hooked up, as i dont let any one but my self drive the cart i sure i can keep it on atleast 2 wheels while turning boy it is fun to tip it a little, not like my 3 wheeler though

as for a donation i can do that when i decide to make a drive to the bank in a few weeks as it over 100 miles round trip to my bank

can you link me a good place for ordering parts

are there any threads that show what a lift kit parts look like or how they are installed
or if any members have made there own

i checked the larger tires that i have and they will fit on the rims on the cart but stand to tall to install them on the cart with out a lift kit

thanks
Joe

[kameljoe21]

I have posted some pic on my photo bucket of my carts

im uploading them as i type so it will be a min or 2

[kameljoe21]

Forgot to add link
http://s853.photobucket.com/home/kameljoe21/allalbums

[BrewCityMusic]

The best quality block lift I found for my Marathon (which I can honestly say will take ANY abuse I throw at it, unlike some of the cheapie foreign kits) is Ebay auction number230529770412 - for under $100 you can't go wrong and very easy to install, welds are good, all solid steel (no stamped parts, etc)

As to the missing cover on your driven clutch - order one NOW. Not tomorrow, NOW. Best price I found was through buggiesunlimited.com ($9) but if you're thinking about hooking the governor back up (which I highly suggest - it's amazingly easy to overrev these 2pg motors on hills, etc without it) order the $11 cover that includes the wear button. If you go the cheap route, you'll have to figure out a way to plug the hole at the end of the cover anyhow, so prob best to get the kit that includes the wear button.

As to wheels and bigger tires, most of the sponsors carry kits however keep in mind that with a lift kit you will NEED to either buy 2" offset rims or at very least, wheel spacers if you are going to use bigger tires (I have 22's on the cart in my avatar, to give you an idea). Wheel spacers are around $40 for a good quality 2" per side set (again, ebay) and what I like about them is I was able to save some $ by reusing my stock rims - I bought a set of 22x11x8 Chen Shin Lumberjacks off DennisKirk.com on clearance for $140 shipped (you'll have to keep your eyes open for tire deals yourself, though) so all in all I ended up with a 5" lift, spacers, tires, etc front to back for $260 to my door (I ordered my lift kit when he was running a "Sale" on Ebay for $80 shipped)

[kameljoe21]

Brew
thanks for the info

as for the lift kit
from that pic of the items
i have pretty much all the things in my shop to make that kit
i had thought that there was a lot of stuff that you would have to install
now all i need to do is find directions to see where all the stuff goes and make one my self, in the end i think it will cost me about 10 bucks for elect or less

[BrewCityMusic]

I'll look and see if I still have the instructions, if I do I'll scan and post them with the dimensions of the parts - most would be really easy to fab up except the rear coil extenders, but even those would be a snap once you located the right heavy-wall tubing stock ... I'm planning on spending a quality afternoon with the cart tomorrow, so I'll snap some pics of the components and where they go for you

[kameljoe21]

i looked at some of the directions
and the closest i could find is a 94 and up and the parts are not the same

so for it working for a 3 wheel cart im pretty sure it will due to that there are 2 springs in the front

i spent some time looking at the cart and am starting to under stand how it is lifted
as it just a spring lift it seems pretty easy

thanks in advance