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10-27-2012, 09:49 AM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spicewood, TX
Posts: 219
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Turn Signal "bleed over"?
Well, still trying to get my '86 SunClassic fixed up, and I've run into a small problem ... and it's ELECTRICAL! I hate electrical problems!
When I use the turn signals, I get a small, what I call "bleed over" to the opposite turn signal. In other words, left turn signal flashing, I get a very slight, but perceptible, flash out of the right turn signal, and visa versa. My first thought was that the flasher unit was failing so I replaced it with a new 12 volt flasher (auto store bought, not OEM)... no change. Next I traced all of the wires to ensure appropriate and secure grounding (electrical power seeking a short route to ground always messes things up), and the grounds are all good. Anybody experience this, or what should I check next. All input welcome (well, most input ... except you dummy! ) Thanks, Ogre |
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10-27-2012, 12:20 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Flint Mi.
Posts: 248
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
we call it a short.
check all your connections for wires with bad insulation that are touching each other or the frame, poor or no ground in light , some thing in side the light is causing a shunted fault. " screw - piece of wire- even moisture. There is not a true one fits all for shorts just old horse seance if it looks bad or broken it probable is. You have to just starting looking for the what looks strange bare spots in wires, broken wire, twister wires may hide a bare spot that could be broken but the plating coating is not broke, a or nicks in the wiring that may have caused the wire to carode. if you can not see any thing go with a light tester the kind that looks like a ice pick on all the termails points. next take to some one that is good at repairing 12v problems |
10-27-2012, 12:58 PM | #3 |
I Refuse To Get Stuck!!!
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Hilton,NY
Posts: 5,427
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
Normally a "bleed-thru"is caused by a "floating-ground",Your lites have a weak ground somewhere and its trying to find a good ground thru the other circuits.The only other cause could be a defective switch,but my money is on your grounds.Are the lites self-grounding,or wire-grounded?Self-Grounding stuff can give you fits,as they can sometimes be very fussy.If they are self-grounding,attach a ground-lead to the mount-bolt and run it to your battery-ground.Hope this helps.
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10-27-2012, 01:57 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 1,942
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
Check your grounds but I'm willing to bet it's in the switch it's self.
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10-27-2012, 02:49 PM | #5 |
Vegas modded 420
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: West MI
Posts: 15,433
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
Make sure the frame is grounded with your new wire, or each light is grounded to the battery. These carts don't really have a frame ground, it may work but may blow a fuse at some point because the ground is not for additional equipment.
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10-27-2012, 04:35 PM | #6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spicewood, TX
Posts: 219
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
Thanks for all of the feedback Guys. Having done a lot of electrical work on cars I am restoring (and the reason I hate electrical problems), I am fully aware of the typical electrical impulse that finds the best route to ground, and usually activates something other than the desired object.
The lights each have a ground wire, and I used my ohmmeter to check the continuity between each ground to the Neg (-) terminal of the battery, and each is close enough to zero ohms to indicate a good ground. I haven't gone through the complete wire bundle to check for any corrosion or chafed areas, so I guess that's next. In my mind the only common connection the two lights have (considering separate hot and ground circuits) is the flasher (just changed) and the turn signal switch. Does that sound logical? I'm not real "up to speed" on Yamaha Carts. If I can't find another area where the two meet (corroded and/or chafed), I am guessing I need to pull the cover off the steering column and check out the switch ... Right? Thanks for helping me with my trouble shooting guys ... not sure if it is the switch if they are even made any more, so I may have to try to repair it. Oh boy, more electrical fun (he says tongue-in-cheek) !! Sounds like, barring any short circuit, jaX*72 and pac*90 may be right about the switch. Ogre |
10-27-2012, 05:46 PM | #7 |
Vegas modded 420
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: West MI
Posts: 15,433
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
You can get the entire switches for 20-40 bucks on ebay, just bought one for a utv. Note you need a special flasher to run LED lights we put on that, or run resistors on the lights.
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10-27-2012, 05:48 PM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spicewood, TX
Posts: 219
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
Well guys, that was one of my "poorer" jobs of troubleshooting!
I forgot to look at the front turn signals. D'oh ... no problems! So now I'm thinking that if it's ONLY the rear turn signals, the switch should be ok, so I have to run those wire bundles and check for the common (contact) area. So it's back to corrosion or chafing, I guess? Any other suggestions? Ogre |
10-27-2012, 06:04 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 1,942
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
Corrosion under the bulb can do that.
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10-27-2012, 09:24 PM | #10 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Erie, Pennsylvania
Posts: 989
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Re: Turn Signal "bleed over"?
OGRE quote[In my mind the only common connection the two lights have (considering separate hot and ground circuits) is the flasher (just changed) and the turn signal switch. Does that sound logical? I'm not real "up to speed" on Yamaha Carts].
OGRE - If you have dual filament bulbs (as in parking lights), a weak ground could let the turn signal voltage feed the parking light filaments. (that would be a common connection). I had a really goofy (similar problem) years ago on one of my cars. Bottom line, it turned out that the common connection between filaments inside the bulb lost connection to the bulb base (which is ground). Both filaments were still connected together inside the bulb, but not connected to ground. When the bad turn signal filament became energized it directly fed through the parking light filament to the opposite parking light filament. Replaced the bulb and problem gone !! (Took a lot of head scratching !!) I know what you mean with electrical problems - good luck - RAY Last edited by bigstik40; 10-27-2012 at 09:30 PM.. Reason: correction |
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