Diagnostic help needed.

[greg9719]

So third time is a charm...
Few years ago I got about half way through a complete rebuild of a 94 medalist. Unfortunately had to sell the project as I had a daughter on the way.
A few months ago I decided to start looking for another project. After not having finding much luck I put my search on the back burner.
Well all worked out and I'm the new owner of a 99 txt series cart. This cart is similar to my previous medalist as it's staying in the family. Been owned by my late grandfather since new for a family business.
So on to the issue...
Story is the cart got stuck in the mud then just quit. I've been told 3rd hand that it was looked at by a local cart business and told the controller is bad.
Batter pack is showing 34v. Using the stickied diagnostic guide, key on I have 34v on the large battery side terminal of the solenoid. When the pedal is depressed the solenoid clicks and there is 34v on the large controller side terminal. The thing is, it bleeds off. I see no diode or resistor on the solenoid. I do get 34v on the small (+) terminal on the solenoid when the pedal is depressed and it decreases as the pedal is pushed farther (if I recall correctly).
So my question is where do I go next? Do I need to install a diode and resistor prior to continuing? Do I move on down the diagnostic sticki with the jumper wire and voltage at controller wires connector? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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[Mooncarter]

You may have other issues, but your batteries are almost 100% dead.

[LabRat]

A golf cart has 2 systems. Power & control. Just as with a gas motor its either fuel or fire. So you need one of the 2 in great working condition so you can evaluate the other system. I usually start with the PACK, Water, Terminals, Condition. After charge do a load test, ensure that the pack is close to & will stay at 100%. I don't think that 32vdc will move that cart, which may be where the pack is at if you have 34vdc before "Key-On"
Sure you may need a controller, motor, solenoids or other gadgets but until the pack is at 100% power you are spitting into the wind trying to troubleshoot with a zombie pack (You think they are alive but they really are not)

[JohnnieB]

First thing to do is get the batteries charged, they appear to be Trojan brand batteries, so 38.2V is 100% SoC.

They are less than 10% charged at 34V, so they cannot supply many amps and their voltage dropping off after solenoid clicks isn't the least bit surprising.

Once the batteries are charged, we can troubleshoot the system.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

First thing to do is get the batteries charged, they appear to be Trojan brand batteries, so 38.2V is 100% SoC.

They are less than 10% charged at 34V, so they cannot supply many amps and their voltage dropping off after solenoid clicks isn't the least bit surprising.

Once the batteries are charged, we can troubleshoot the system.

[greg9719]

Thanks for the information gentlemen. I will get it charged up and report back once so.

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