Electric 97 Textron ezgo wiring diagrams, motor won't run

[coppengerm]

I have a 1997 ezgo Textron series cart. Friday it just stopped working. Batteries are good, put a new F/R switch in, new Solenoid and controller. I can't find any wiring diagrams for this cart. I have tested motor by disconnecting wires and jumping from battery, it runs. Checked voltage at key switch, controller, solenoid, and F/R switch. Have power to all but motor. Any help appreciated!!

[Sir Nuke]

first question: you turn the key on.....place it in F or R and start to push the pedal....can you hear the solenoid "CLICK"?

[coppengerm]

Yes, I can hear solenoid click.

[JohnnieB]

EZGO didn't re-invent the wheel every year like automakers do, so earlier/later model schematics work.

[coppengerm]

Thanks JohnnieB. I saw this diagram but didn't think it was same as my cart because I only have 3 posts on the top of the controller. Then I'm not sure about the pedal wiring. This is actually my dads, he's 87 and using to get around the farm. But I can't figure out why I'm not getting voltage to motor. I've looked for bare wires, checked continuity thru pretty much everything, and did a diagnose test as per a link I found to check controller, pedal, F/S switch. I'm at a loss.

[JohnnieB]

Here is one without the A2 terminal on the controller, some had them, others didn't.

If the solenoid is clicking, the pedal switch is working.

The problem is in the high current circuit (highlighted in red on attached schematic)

Jack the rear tires off the ground and put on jackstands so the half ton cart doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over someone or something.

Run a jumper wire from the main positive post on the battery pack to the small terminal on the solenoid with two red wires on it. That should cause the solenoid to energize (click) and you ought to have full pack voltage on every cable highlighted in red, plus the one highlighted in blue that is connected to the M- terminal on the controller.

The F/R switch is the most likely suspect, so I'd start there. When the lever is in either F or R, all four of the high current cables connected to it ought to have pack voltage on it.

[coppengerm]

Would it be the small switches on the foward reverse switch that goes bad? I just put a brand new whole F/R in a few months ago. Included the small switches on the top. How do I test to see if one is bad? I'm sorry for the ignorance, but if it were a gas or diesel motor I'd had it fixed. I'm new to electric type motors. Thanks so much!

[coppengerm]

Going back down to dads to try to work on it this morning. But I know I had batt load voltage to Solenoid. Only 1\2 the volts on the A1 lead on top of the controller. ,had full voltage to lead between the F/R switch and controller, when I put F/R switch in reverse the reverse horn beeped. Seems like I'm going in circles. I have checked continuity between pretty much everything and all seemed good. The only thing I couldn't test was the pedal switch, I tried to measure continuity between green and white wire but had no continuity, no voltage either, and yes the solenoid closes when pedal is pushed, does it come off coil side of pedal?

[kgsc]

If the solenoid clicks then the small wire stuff is working. You have a problem in the heavy wire circuit. With the cart jacked up, push the pedal down and run a jumper between the two main lugs of the solenoid. If nothing, check the FnR next

[coppengerm]

What do I test on the F/R switch? Continuity between large lugs? Or small switches on top? I'm sorry if I sound ignorant but I've been working on this since last Friday and not getting anywhere. I was told originally it was solenoid even when clicking so bought a new one, then same thing after so was told controller bad bought a new one installed it, same thing. The F/R switch is about 4 months old but I understand it could go bad, just not sure what to check on it . Thanks !!