89 Marathon ignitor issue

[Rlowe5]

I purchased an 89 2 cycle EZGO Marathon that had no spark. Replaced coil and plug wire just to start, pulsar tests out ok. I just purchased an ignitor and the connections on the ignitor for an 89 are different than the ones on my golf cart. My ignitor has the connections that are on the 90's ignitor. Just one connection difference and that is a plug connector on my cart and the older ignitor is supposed to connect to the voltage regulator. So I changed the connector to a plug connector and plugged it in as it was on the cart. Now the cart turns over when I put it in gear, not when I push the accelerator. When I disconnected the wire that goes back to the solenoid, it turns over with the accelerator, but then I'm unplugged. The wiring diagrams are different for the 89 and the late 90 carts. My cart was and appears to be wired like the 89 diagram. However the ignitor that you buy for the 89 is wired like the 90's diagram. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks!

[cart around]

See if this diagram helps.
Let's talk about the basic activation circuit.

From the positive side of the battery follow the large cable to the solenoid.
From there a small wire splits off to a fuse. This is a simple series circuit.
From the fuse through the key switch to the neutral safety switch (located on the bottom right of the FWd/Reverse switch) then to the pedal switch. From the pedal switch the wire goes to a small terminal on the solenoid. The other small terminal goes to ground.

That's all you need to activate the solenoid and turn the starter.

One small terminal is now positive and the other small terminal is now ground.
Throughout the years they used different spots for different components to pick up a ground or power source. Most of the time they used those two terminals.
You can, but you don't have to. You can also use the other large lug of the solenoid to pick up power.

The voltage regulator has three terminals. The middle one is DF. It connects to the DF of the starter. The others are D+ and D-. One needs power and the other needs ground. You decide how you want to connect them.

The ignitor has red and blue wires to the pulser coil.

It will have a ground wire and a power wire. You decide where you are picking them up.

It will then have a 5th wire that goes to the positive side of the coil.

Another wire comes out of the coil to ground.

That's it.

[Rlowe5]

Thanks, I'll check these and make sure everything looks correct. I have determined that with the key on and the pedal pushed, I have spark. Unfortunately, I have to put it in gear to get it to turn over, not with the pedal.

[cart around]

Wait a minute. There is no putting it in gear.

The forward/reverse switch is a large 4 contact electrical switch that changes polarity of the starter. It needs to be fully engaged in either forward or reverse to make contact.

There is no real neutral. All that means is that the switch is open and not making full contact. Nothing will work until the switch is fully engaged.

You will also find 2 microswitches mounted to the FnR switch.
The upper left switch only closes when in reverse. Its only purpose is to power the reverse buzzer. The very annoying reverse buzzer.

The lower right switch is called the neutral safety switch. It's connected in series between the key switch and the pedal switch. It closes when the FnR switch is fully engaged in either forward or reverse.

It was added to the start circuit in1976. Its purpose is to prevent the solenoid from activating while the FnR switch is only partially engaged.

They don't want those large lugs passing huge amounts of current to the starter with only the edges making contact. That's why the switch doesn't close until the FnR switch is fully engaged.

[Rlowe5]

The problem now is that it turns over as soon as I put it in F or R, whether the key is on or not! I don't have to push the pedal. Is my solenoid stuck?

[cart around]

Disconnect all of the wires from the small terminals of the solenoid.

If it still does it, then yes the solenoid is stuck.

[Rlowe5]

Ok, so the solenoid was stuck and I replaced it. However, with the new solenoid, it turns over really slow, too slow to start. Battery is close to 13v both when off and when cranking although slowly goes down as you crank as expected. With the old solenoid on, it would crank fast, but was cranking without the foot pedal. Everything is wired the same. It's like I'm losing voltage before it gets to the starter. Any ideas?

[Rlowe5]

Originally Posted by Rlowe5

Ok, so the solenoid was stuck and I replaced it. However, with the new solenoid, it turns over really slow, too slow to start. Battery is close to 13v both when off and when cranking although slowly goes down as you crank as expected. With the old solenoid on, it would crank fast, but was cranking without the foot pedal. Everything is wired the same. It's like I'm losing voltage before it gets to the starter. Any ideas?

Ok, took the plug out and it turned over fast. Put the plug back in and it turned over fast but then the solenoid stuck just like the old one. What would be making the solenoid stick, and when it's stuck, it turns over fast?? This solenoid will at least become unstuck until the next time I try to start it.