2005 quits

[busman9]

From what I can find,I could hook my meter to red/white wire at the solenoid and drive the cart and see what the voltage does when it quits?????????????

[Sergio]

First a small technical correction, the speed sensor test engages 'Dynamic Brake', not 'Regenerative Brake' as that requires the solenoid to be engaged.

You know the solenoid is dropping OFF, so if You can measure the voltage on the small posts at the time the cart quits, it may tell you if the contacts opened by themselves or the controller disengaged the solenoid.

I believe it will happen too quick for you to be able to see any difference in time even if that is the case.

You may want to try to both "avoid regen' and 'force regen' to see if it triggers the solenoid drop out fault.

Try accelerating slowly but steadily (You don't want the cart to try to go faster than the gas pedal is demanding) and see if you can go further than the 50ft.

Try to accelerate down hill so that the cart will go faster than the accelerator is demanding and the controller will engage Regen to reduce the speed and see if the problem happens sooner than 50ft.

[cartattach]

I just had this exact problem on a 2006. I also spoke with David (tahoedawg) about it and there was no diode in that one. It ended up being a failed controller. And not wanting to believe it was the controller I spent a great deal of time hunting down electrical and doing every test Club Car has for electrical. Just as a side note, I will say that at times the Club Car test call for a certain ohm reading or within a set of values, the readings don't always fall directly into their set values. You may find something that tests just outside of the preset values, that doesn't always mean that the part has failed. On the 2006 I had doing that, the OBC failed a test that by Club Car standards would require replacement, however that was not the issue that ended up being the cause and the OBC is still functioning normally.

[busman9]

I am thinking about ordering the drop out harness and see what happens. What do you guys think?

[Sergio]

You can do the tests I suggested without costing anything and it will help identify if Regen is what is causing the drop-out (the condition that the drop-out harness is suppose to fix).

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Sergio, IQ and Excel cars do not engage the solenoid when you push them. That only happens on Regen1 and 2 cars. The solenoid stays open the entire time during speed sensor push testing.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Sergio, IQ and Excel cars do not engage the solenoid when you push them. That only happens on Regen1 and 2 cars. The solenoid stays open the entire time during speed sensor push testing.

David you misread my posting, it was a comment related to hist first post when he said the push test verified the Regen was working... I basically said what you said, that tested the dynamic brake, not Regen brake.

That issue with the main drop-out is caused by the transition from Regen to drive when the controller capacitors are charged more than the battery and causes that false reading.

I think the location of the diode on that harness was just to make it easier for a field retrofit.

I don't have a 2005 wiring diagram, but I suspect the diode got moved to where it belongs, the only other location that would have controller capacitor voltage, the aux pin in the 16-pin connector that provides power to the motor field coil during dynamic brake.

A diode equivalent circuit later got incorporated into the controller itself.

I think that is also why in some years it says the tow/run diode is only present in the CE (European) models, club car probably did not think it was cost effective to re-certify another controller for the European market when a simple diode fixed the original issue.

Some of this is obviously an educated speculation since I don't work for Club Car.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

I agree 100%. I came to the same conclusion when I looked at a diagram. A newer controller would remedy the issue because it would have the diode already in place, but the jumper harness will do the same thing if that's his issue. It's also possible that at some point, a used (older) controller may have been installed on the vehicle, bringing with it this issue.

[busman9]

Would it help if I got the part number off of the controller

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by busman9

Would it help if I got the part number off of the controller

Only to the right person. I have no documentation telling me when the correct diode was added, or even if our theory holds true that it was added in the controller. I see no other place they could have added it, since it's obviously not in the wire harness, but it's all just speculation at this point by Sergio and myself. If you had a handheld scanner to plug in, it would tell you the date of manufacture. If it said May of 2002 or something similar, I would feel even more sure of our theory.

If you wanna try the jumper harness go ahead and order it. If it doesn't work send it back and I'll refund you everything except shipping.