1995 E-Z-GO Medalist

[JohnnieB]

If the 99 is also a DCS drive system, Yes. Otherwise, No.

[Falcon]

here is what the plate says' JohnnieB

F399
1183015

Tell me If I am wrong here but looks like to me If I rewired my 99 I could us the stuff from the 95. Please tell me if I am thinking the wrong way.

[JohnnieB]

That serial number comes back is a 1999 TXT Series cart:
Make: TXT
Type: Electric 36 V
Model: TXT Standard
Year: 1999

The Serial number of the cart shown in the pictures at the beginning of this post, come back as a 1995 Medalist DCS cart:
Make: Medalist
Type: Electric 36 V
Model: Electric Medalist (DCS)
Year: 1995

Except for the 36V battery pack and the solenoid, the two drive systems are entirely different and the parts are not interchangeable.

The 99 has a series wound motor and the 95 has a shunt wound (sepex) motor and the controller and F/R switch has to match motor type.

To use the Controller and F/R switch from the 95 in the 99, you'll have to switch the motor and control wiring also.

It can be done, but it is a major undertaking and the DCS controller isn't the most reliable of controllers, so it ought to be replaced with an Alltrax DCX controller, or something similar, at the onset.

-----------
What is your goal or reason for wanting to use the 95 parts in the 99?
There may be other alternatives.

[Falcon]

I'm getting older now and the F/R switch would be easier to use. And I have limited income and I have both carts so I said why not.

[JohnnieB]

I know what mean, I just turned 70.

Like I said, it can be done, you just have to switch out the motor as well as the controller and F/R. Then you have to get the control wiring sorted out.

[CatacombKid]

I have the same 1995 medalist that I'm fairly certain has a bad controller, But I can't seem to find the same controller that was in mine. It's a 6 pin 4 post connector on a 36v medalist. I keep seeing 3 post ones pop up, would there be a way to sub for that?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by CatacombKid

I have the same 1995 medalist that I'm fairly certain has a bad controller, But I can't seem to find the same controller that was in mine. It's a 6 pin 4 post connector on a 36v medalist. I keep seeing 3 post ones pop up, would there be a way to sub for that?

Not all controllers have an A2 terminal and it isn't needed for normal operation.

Typically there is a cable from the F/R switch to the A2 terminal on controller and a second cable from A2 terminal on controller to the A2 stud on motor.

Connect the cable from the F/R switch directly to the A2 stud on motor. If the cable isn't long enough. bolt the two ends that were connected to the A2 terminal on controller together. (Insulate the connection and secure it so it does short out against anything.)

[CatacombKid]

Awesome, the controllers without the 4th posts are much more common and I find them for much cheaper. Sorry to be bothersome, but is there anyway you can test to make sure everything is in working order before you put batteries in? I'd like to make sure that I've fixed everything before I dump a ton of money into new batteries (the ones I have are toast).

[JohnnieB]

How bad of toast are the old batteries?

With the rear tire lifted off the ground, you ought to be able to get the tires to move even if the batteries are too sick to move the cart on level ground.

Another option would be test it with the batteries on charge.
If your cart has a reed switch, you'll have to by-pass it, or pull the magnet out of the charger's plug, but I don't think a 95 had a reed switch.

[CatacombKid]

haha, yeah no easy way around that one. Gonna have to throw a hail mary and buy the batteries on the hopes that nothing other than the controller got fried.