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Old 03-15-2020, 09:13 AM   #1
gatorson
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Default 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

My 1996 Club Car 48v series DS decided to stop accelerating as i was driving it and now will not start up. To add some context, I've had the cart for about a year with no major issues. My batteries are 2 year old Trojans and get 51v at full charge.

I am getting full voltage at the FnR lever when the pedal is pressed. I don't think this is an MCOR model with conversion, but I'm not 100% as I've never taken the pedal assembly apart.

The solenoid does click when the pedal is pressed and I get 48.3V across the small terminals and 2.3 V across the large terminals. I've tried jumping the solenoid by attaching the controller wire and battery wire to the first large terminal. When connecting the negative back to the main pack I get a single large spark. The car still doesn't go with the solenoid bypassed. The car feels like it is trying to move, by budging but doesn't move more than an inch. If it was jacked up I think the wheels may spin very slowly.

Could this still be a faulty solenoid or does this sound like a controller problem. Someone had mentioned earlier that that single large spark would be happening in my controller normally, when the pack isn't disconnected. Is there a way to test the controller? The picture shows my current controller.
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Old 03-16-2020, 09:11 AM   #2
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Default Re: 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

My serial# is A9617-496138. Any thoughts? I do not have a v-glide, so could the potbox be bad thinking that the pedal is not pressed down?
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Old 03-16-2020, 06:34 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

Update - These are the voltages I got when testing my connections.

If anyone has any advice on where to go from here or if there is more I can test it would be greatly appreciated.

Test Connections/ Pedal Not pressed/ Pedal Pressed
B- m- 48.5 47.6
B- b+ 48.7 50.6
B- and solenoid front large terminal 50.8 50.5
B- and solenoid back large Terminal 48.6 50.6
B- and motor A2 48.6 48.8
B- and s2 48.8 48.4
B- and s1 48.6 48.2
B- and A1 48.6 50.6
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Old 03-17-2020, 06:00 AM   #4
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Default Re: 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorson View Post
Update - These are the voltages I got when testing my connections.

If anyone has any advice on where to go from here or if there is more I can test it would be greatly appreciated.

Test Connections/ Pedal Not pressed/ Pedal Pressed
B- m- 48.5 47.6
B- b+ 48.7 50.6
B- and solenoid front large terminal 50.8 50.5
B- and solenoid back large Terminal 48.6 50.6
B- and motor A2 48.6 48.8
B- and s2 48.8 48.4
B- and s1 48.6 48.2
B- and A1 48.6 50.6
You do understand this is VERY hard for me to do, but as a good BGW brother, I am going to bite the NCAA bullet and help a Gator. There above highlighted is your problem. You have either no throttle signal coming into the controller or no output from the controller.

Do you have a potbox (small box along the frame the pedal linkage connects too) or an MSP/V-glide (Pie-shaped black box under the seat by the batteries)?
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Old 03-17-2020, 06:08 AM   #5
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Default Re: 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

Take the Yellow wire off Pin #3 on your controller and with the cart jacked up, in Forward, and key On, check the voltage from pedal up to pedal down and it should go from 0vdc to 5vdc gradually changing. (Red probe on Yellow wire and Black probe on B-)
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Old 03-17-2020, 10:15 AM   #6
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Default Re: 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
Take the Yellow wire off Pin #3 on your controller and with the cart jacked up, in Forward, and key On, check the voltage from pedal up to pedal down and it should go from 0vdc to 5vdc gradually changing. (Red probe on Yellow wire and Black probe on B-)
Thanks NoleFan - I know we can all come together in this desperate time of need without any NCAA sports. Your basketball team was looking pretty good going into March Madness too.

I probed the yellow wire (off of pin 3 on the controller) and with pedal pressed goes from 0vdc to .328 vdc. I'm assuming if the the potbox was correctly working I would be getting 5vdc? Does this mean a potbox to MCOR4 conversion is in my future? If the problem was just the pedal microswitch would it be passing any voltage?
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Old 03-17-2020, 03:17 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

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Originally Posted by gatorson View Post
Thanks NoleFan - I know we can all come together in this desperate time of need without any NCAA sports. Your basketball team was looking pretty good going into March Madness too.

I probed the yellow wire (off of pin 3 on the controller) and with pedal pressed goes from 0vdc to .328 vdc. I'm assuming if the the potbox was correctly working I would be getting 5vdc? Does this mean a potbox to MCOR4 conversion is in my future? If the problem was just the pedal microswitch would it be passing any voltage?
You have a failed potbox and it is a conversion in your future (or you have to convert to an FSU Alum?!?!)

Go here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...conversion-kit and you will get an OEM deisigned kit from the best guy with the best customer service to walk you thru anything you need. David Hicks (TahoeDawgZ71) at Revolution Golf Cars.
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Old 03-23-2020, 07:10 PM   #8
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Default Re: 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

Update: I purchased a DS pre-MCOR to MCOR4 conversion kit from David Hicks at https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...conversion-kit. It worked perfectly and now my cart is back up and running again! To anyone looking to complete the installation, it isn't too bad (maybe 6/10 difficulty) and the installation instructions are very very well written with great diagrams.

Thanks again, NoleFan for the help!! (Luckily I didn't have to convert to an FSU alum)
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Old 03-25-2020, 12:01 PM   #9
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Default Re: 1996 Club Car DS 48v won't start

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Originally Posted by gatorson View Post
Update: I purchased a DS pre-MCOR to MCOR4 conversion kit from David Hicks at https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...conversion-kit. It worked perfectly and now my cart is back up and running again! To anyone looking to complete the installation, it isn't too bad (maybe 6/10 difficulty) and the installation instructions are very very well written with great diagrams.

Thanks again, NoleFan for the help!! (Luckily I didn't have to convert to an FSU alum
I am glad it all worked out and you got the best part out there from a TOP NOTCH provider and the best CC supplier!!
Go 'Noles!

PS- I will see you at the Gator Growl!
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