97 Club Car DS 48v Restoration

[swm63]

Originally Posted by jbarsn

(snip)...I will need to purchase or build a main seat bottom and seat back as well. I also plan to send out the motor for upgrade.

jbarsn, where are you located? I have a pretty decent 2000+ seat bottom that I won't be using. (I bought it from another member here.) I had recently been recovered. It will need a driver armrest, but overall in good shape. Let me know.

[jbarsn]

Rather than replacing the parts I need, I think I will be better off just installing a new lift kit. I did plan to eventually lift the cart so why not just do it now!

After searching online for a little while I found this lift kit and these wheels:

Link to 6" Lift Kit & 22" Wheels

I am still planning to send out the motor for a rebuild and upgrade. Do you think I will have to upgrade my speed control as well? Right now, the cart has a stock 225amp curtis speed controller.

[jbarsn]

Originally Posted by swm63

jbarsn, where are you located? I have a pretty decent 2000+ seat bottom that I won't be using. (I bought it from another member here.) I had recently been recovered. It will need a driver armrest, but overall in good shape. Let me know.

Sounds great! I live in Allentown, PA. Any chance you would be willing to ship? Finding a newer style seat and canopy has been the most challenging part so far! If I ordered new online, I could spend nearly 1k on just seats and a top. I would prefer to get one used if I can find or I will eventually just have to build my own.

I called around my local area and have a few options for these parts. I believe I can pick up a newer style canopy with front and rear struts plus a rear seat for around $300. I will still need to find or build a main seat bottom and seat back.

[Swan]

Originally Posted by jbarsn

I am still planning to send out the motor for a rebuild and upgrade. Do you think I will have to upgrade my speed control as well? Right now, the cart has a stock 225amp curtis speed controller.

one you lift it 90% of your torque will go away . probably not that much but sure feel like it .

[swm63]

Originally Posted by jbarsn

...Sounds great! I live in Allentown, PA. Any chance you would be willing to ship? Finding a newer style seat and canopy has been the most challenging part so far! If I ordered new online, I could spend nearly 1k on just seats and a top. I would prefer to get one used if I can find or I will eventually just have to build my own...

I'll measure and weigh it tonight, snap some pics and PM you tomorrow.

[swm63]

Sent you a PM.

[jbarsn]

Originally Posted by Swan

one you lift it 90% of your torque will go away . probably not that much but sure feel like it .

I think your right! I do plan on upgrading the motor, speed control, cables and F&R switch as well to keep up with the demanding power requirements Think this will help?

[jbarsn]

Okay guys so I now have a new plan for the build and am looking for any and all suggestions before I pull the trigger and order new parts.

I will be adding a 6" Lift and 22" wheels.

I mentioned earlier in the thread, I plan to upgrade the entire power system to accommodate the larger wheels and lift:
- Rebuild/Upgrade Motor
- Upgrade Speed Control (500-600a?)
- 2awg Cables
- HD F&R Switch


I reached out to EMP motors and have many options for upgrading my current motor. I will most likely send out my motor after I install the lift kit and larger wheels.

For speed control, I think the Curtis 1205M-5603 500a will work just fine with this new setup (I am not looking to program on the go so I really have no need for an alltrax) I came across some inexpensive clone options for this Curtis controller. They claim to have the same internal parts and are 100% compatible, just generic controllers. The only thing I will need to confirm is if the controller is pre-programmed for "type 9". If not, I can rent a programmer for $40. I searched around and found some older threads where users had installed the clone without any issues.

Here is a link to the speed control I am considering

I plan to make my own 2 guage cables. I estimate around 35' to replace all cables including the battery connections. Should cost about $70.

Link to 2awg Cable
Link to Inexpensive Copper Lugs

I also plan to DIY upgrade my current F&R switch. I think I just need to upgrade the buss bars to larger copper bars for the increased power. Should be an inexpensive and easy upgrade :)

Lastly, I will need to make some type of copper stud to accommodate the 2awg cable through the OBC.


Let me know if this sounds like a good plan or if you would make any changes and why! I am excited to begin upgrading and can't wait until the build is complete!

[Dragracer_Art]

Using oddball motor and Curtis controllers is a HUGE mistake in my opinion.

The curtis controllers are very fragile and unforgiving... and have zero user interface. (You cannot adjust/tune/personalize) Ask me how I know. Been there, done that and will never do it again.

If you do NOTHING else... at least put a good Alltrax controller on the cart with all the supporting parts. (cables/solenoid/etc) and run the stock motor until you can put a good name brand motor on the cart. You will be amazed at how much power that Alltrax will give you.

I just put 23" tires and 6" lift on my cart (from the same ebay seller you listed previously) and the stock motor pushes it just fine with the Alltrax power.

You will also find reasons to plug the laptop in and fine tune the settings in the Alltrax.
Mine was pretty froggy out of the box.
I was able to lower the RPM limit to slow it down (stupid-fast) and also adjusted the throttle rate to soften the pedal feel.

Knowing what I now know... I would NEVER in a million years use a Curtis controller on a modified cart.

[jakesnake27]

Don’t waste your time with a Curtis. Don’t get me wrong, they’re great stock controllers, but as mentioned, they offer zero user programmability for the private owners like us. Just get an Alltrax and do it right the first time.

Additionally, making your own cables is great, but do not attempt to DIY upgrade your F&R switch. The actual contact pads inside the stock unit are much smaller than on an HD unit, so there’s more to it than just the buss bars on the outside. Again, just buy a new HD F&R and do it right, once.

Lastly, you are correct in that you’ll need an OBC stud for your larger 2 gauge cables. It’s well documented here on the forum on how to make one, or various site sponsors sell them.

Good luck and have fun!