2009 CC Prec IQ Controller Testing

[CCNorth]

If you decide that this the dumbest question ever asked on this forum I will understand. However, please consider that I am a female with blonde hair. I do have mechanical skills, thank goodness.

My cart is a 2009 CC Precedent, IQ, 48 v.

With David Hicks' excellent help I upgraded the original TPS to a MCOR4 in the hopes of solving a severe jerking when in reverse. This began to occur shortly before the cart decided to stop working all together. The cart still refuses to move. When I turn the key and press the accelerator I do hear the solenoid click. Also, the buzzer works when in reverse. It just refuses to move.
My batteries are 6 years old but I do have 50.1 v across the pack and 8.3-.4 on each battery. I think I am correct that this should be good enough for the cart to move.

I spend today attempting to check the controller. It is original to the cart and is a Curtis 48V, 250a, model 1510A-5251. I also planned to check the solenoid.

Here's the dumb question. The service manual gives the process of removing batteries 3 & 4 to gain access to the control panel. But, in order to use the voltmeter the batteries need to be hooked up, minus the #6 negative cable. How in the world do you get the control panel out and still be able to put batteries 3 & 4 back in? I was unable to pull the panel far enough forward to lay in flat because the cables running to the motor are too short. I saw a Madjax video where they pulled the panel out and laid it on cardboard on top of the batteries. I can't do that and not sure it's a good idea.

So, I assume I have two other options:
1. Stick my arms and head into the bag well access opening and remove the back of the control panel. Not easy to do.
2. I have to remove my back flip seat to be able to access the top opening to the control panel. The frame for the seat lays right on top of the access panel. That's my worse nightmare.

The more I type the dumber I feel. Please tell me what I am missing and the correct way to do this.

[movin-on]

No dumb questions here...You can access the rear panel easier from below if you jack up the rear of the cart high and put it on jack stands...I agree getting to the controller, solenoid, obc, etc for testing is a pain on a Precedent unless you have the 4x12 battery setup...I have seen where someone pulled the 2 middle batteries and put them on the floor of the cart and hooked them back up for testing using long cables that they made up...

[CCNorth]

That's a great idea! Thank you so much!! Speaking of battery cables, I have a question and will ask it here since it involves your recommendation.

I noticed that I have one odd sized cable that connects batteries 3 & 4. It is a #2 and all others are #4. It's been like this since I purchased the cart used in about 2014. This #2 cable builds up lots of corrosion on one end. I have attached a photo taken before I cleaned this cable yesterday.

The only upgrades to the cart, from stock, is a radio/CD player and a LED light bar mounted on the roof. The light has a dedicated switch.

Is it normal to mix battery cable sizes?

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by CCNorth

.... I noticed that I have one odd sized cable that connects batteries 3 & 4. It is a #2 and all others are #4. .... Is it normal to mix battery cable sizes?

Most of the time all the cables would be the same gauge, but having some that are larger is fine.
All my cables are #2, except the bat3-bat4 cable is #1.
I wanted a shorter cable between bat3-bat4 to allow access behind them and I had a short piece of #1.
Are you spraying the cable connections with Battery Terminal Protector to help with corrosion?

[movin-on]

You're fine with that cable...If you ever upgrade to a higher amp controller/solenoid, you would change all cables to #2 anyway...

[WalterM6]

Try this before you go through all that trouble. Connect your volt meter back to the pack where you measured 50.1 volts. Try running the cart and see what the voltage drops to. If it drops 8 volts or more you probably have a bad battery.

[CCNorth]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

Most of the time all the cables would be the same gauge, but having some that are larger is fine.
All my cables are #2, except the bat3-bat4 cable is #1.
I wanted a shorter cable between bat3-bat4 to allow access behind them and I had a short piece of #1.
Are you spraying the cable connections with Battery Terminal Protector to help with corrosion?

Great information! I had used the protector in the past but had cleaned it off recently while checking the batteries and a general cleaning of battery box.

Originally Posted by movin-on

You're fine with that cable...If you ever upgrade to a higher amp controller/solenoid, you would change all cables to #2 anyway...

Thanks for that important reminder! I am considering an upgrade. When I purchased the cart I was told it had an upgraded controller but I now know that is not true. I didn't know enough at the time to check the controller myself. Live and learn.

[CCNorth]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

Try this before you go through all that trouble. Connect your volt meter back to the pack where you measured 50.1 volts. Try running the cart and see what the voltage drops to. If it drops 8 volts or more you probably have a bad battery.

Excellent advice!! However, I just decided to replace the batteries and did that yesterday. I got my money's worth after 6 years. Due to illness in my family the cart was used very little the past 4 years and twice the batteries were depleted due to power outages and other times being driven by someone until it died.

My new batteries are charging, at present, and I will see if this makes the cart happy enough that he will decide to move. Keeping my fingers crossed.