2awg, 4awg or 6awg on an old converted 36 to 48?

[97ccds-custom]

Thanks. Sound advice. Carts Unlimited appears to be out of stock on the C54 conversion kit. Maybe I'll figure out what the lead time is and if it's not too far away I'm might try the 2 gauge and if I burn something up I'll be replacing it anyway.

Right now I think I have:
- Original 36v vglide system with 6 gauge cables
- Original resistor coils
- Upgraded HD F/R switch (I think)
- Upgraded 48V solenoid
- Upgraded core 36V motor (estimate it was 3.1HP originally, probably over 4HP now? and maybe 20% more torque than original?)
- lift kit with backseat
- 22" tall tires
- six 8V batteries (5 T105s from 2014 and 1 Autocraft GC8 from 2017)
- Total battery weight is 370 lbs
- Total capacity at 20Hr is 970Ahr
- At max charge I read about 50.3V
- When I first got the cart running I was able to get up to 22mph on a straight road with no passengers and I could make it up hills okay with a little slow down and some passengers.
- Today with the current batteries I'm closer to 19mph and passengers and struggling up larger hills.

Replacing the batteries to T875s
- Drops my battery weight to 369 lbs
- Increase my capacity at 20Hr to 1,020 Ahr
- I'm hoping will increase my float charge to about 54v
- I'm hoping to see a light more pep with just fresh batteries

New batteries and just replacing the old cables from 6 gauge to 2 gauge
- Unknown improvement

Plan to order from Carts Unlimited the following:
- Conversion kit Pkg C54 with Alltrax 500 and 400Amp Solenoid and new throttle pedal
- Not sure if I should keep my existing F/R or switch to a SW202?
- 2 gauge cables all around
- I expect to see much longer runtime
- I hope to be able to adjust hp and torque to my driving needs
- I have no idea how much HP I will be able to get out of that 36v motor

[97ccds-custom]

Originally Posted by Jake_Daddy

I would throw a suggestion in there while you wait to upgrade to solid state. Judging from your pics it looks like there are some hills in your area which are not great for resistor carts with bigger tires. You can search the forums on here to find the Vglide bypass which is adding a solenoid and a few wires and it keeps you running most efficient at full throttle.

Great idea! I might look into it because it looks like the conversion kit to solid state is currently out of stock.

So basically I disconnect the top speed coil from the vglide wiper and replace it with a second 36v dedicated solenoid that I mount somewhere? Seems to good to be true, just $30 solenoid and some cable rewiring? Would that second solenoid also need to be 48v or will my series cart never give it the full 36 to matter when I have the pedal down going up hill reaching that 5th coil?

[fsu1tm]

Email David @ Revolution (info@revolutiongolfcars.com) and see if he can put together a conversion kit for you. He won't sell the electronic foot pedal but he does have an MCOR4 conversion kit that may fit your cart. The electronic pedal has real smooth action but the biggest drawback to it is that you have to manually release the parking brake. Being electronic, it doesn't have the mechanism to release it for you like the original pedal. The MCOR4 conversion will retain that feature. It's a little pricey but may be worth it if you have others driving the cart. Your call.

[Jake_Daddy]

Originally Posted by 97ccds-custom

Great idea! I might look into it because it looks like the conversion kit to solid state is currently out of stock.

So basically I disconnect the top speed coil from the vglide wiper and replace it with a second 36v dedicated solenoid that I mount somewhere? Seems to good to be true, just $30 solenoid and some cable rewiring? Would that second solenoid also need to be 48v or will my series cart never give it the full 36 to matter when I have the pedal down going up hill reaching that 5th coil?

Yes thats all there is to it and you will need a HD solenoid for your conversion anyway so may as well get it now.

FSU is correct if you can get a controller you can do the upgrade now even if a "kit" is not available. I already had a HD solenoind and wires before I did mine (also had the bypass mentioned earlier) then I just converted the vglide to a potentiometer (search it) and I was done. Your stock FnR will also work fine as the 36v versions were already set up for high amperage. This is the cheap and easy way (IMHO) to do it and it works fine, the MCOR will provide smoother acceleration though.

EDIT: I will add that when I was running the stock 3hp motor I couldnt hardly feel the sweep of the vglide potentiometer, when I upgraded to a D&D motor for speed I could feel it a lot more. Not enough to make me want to go by and MCOR but you could tell it had the steps in it.

[97ccds-custom]

So I put in the T875 batteries and cleaned off the old 6 gauge cables while I waited for the new ones from Battery Cables 𝗨𝗦𝗔 and man did that wake up my cart! But I was disappointed that after a full charge with the old cables I was getting the charge to 50.4 which is what it did with the old batteries but the new batteries hold a charge better. Then the new 2 gauge cables came in and my series motor got even more of a wake up call and after a full charge I get to 51v!

I decided to skip the high step vglide bypass and not add another solenoid since I’m just waiting for parts to come back in stock at Carts Unlimited do do the Alltrax SR 48500 and 400A solenoid and new go pedal. If I burn up my Vglide in the meantime I’ll just park it until I do the solid state conversion. Can’t wait!

[97ccds-custom]

Well I did it. Enjoyed the 2g cables and new batteries too much on my series cart and this morning I turn the key and push down on the go pedal and get nothing. But everything is getting power and the batteries read ~51v. I don't hear any clicking so that makes me think I blew the solenoid.

I guess now I have to wait for Scotty to get that 400A solenoid back in stock and do my full upgrade.

[97ccds-custom]

I ordered a new microswitch for the F&R just in case that’s what is gone and the Solenoid is still working.