ready to torch my buggie

[panamaguy]

So the saga continues,91 244 robin,new s/g,new volt reg.new battery,new gas lines,cleaned fuel pump,new filter,cleaned gas tank,fresh gas oil mix(100to1).I posted yesterday that the new carb didn't work put the old carb back on and it fired up,ran it without the belt to charge the battery a bit, ran out of daylight so covered it for the night.This AM. put the belt on and it will turn over but won't move,took the belt off and she revs right up,I notice that I have gas spitting out of the carb,the new carb did the same thing but much more.I still have a crazy volt meter reading when the cart is at high rpms.A multitude of problems and I don't know where to start,Any one have any suggestions other than a buggie fire?!!!!!???,Panama

[StoveBolt]

I know nothing about 2 cycles, but I read here guys having trouble with plugged muflers and bad crank seals (sucking air) on 2 cycles.

Also don't they have reeds?

[redcloud]

So you are still having some issues.
you stated you cleaned the pump? Have you checked for pulsing of fuel from the line at the carb? Pull line off carb and turn engine over and you should get fuel from that line but not a ton of pressure.
Next you stated you took the belt off so I am figuring you took the drive belt off that goes to the driven clutch? Have you checked to see if the drive clutch closes when you run the engine up ? Should have a steady open and closed as engine changes RPM. If that is ok, then is the driven clutch moving at all when you try and turn it by hand with rear end jacked up? Just wondering if you may have a froze up rear end or clutch.
As for carb, I would be making sure you are getting good pulsing off the the engine block line and fuel flow at the carb fuel line.
Fueling these engines requires pulsing action from block, reeds working properly, engine shaft seals proper and good compression.
I remember this from another thread but can not remember if you had did the following. Check Compression with anything under 90#s will be very good loss of power and should be at or over 125#s, then check head bolts for tightness ( make sure no blown head gasket) and check for plugged muffler. Now you may even have a pressure leak in the block at the jug bolts or block seam.
if all seems to be ok, I would try a new pump as they are not that high in price.
I know all this is complicated but start with good compression, pulsing line to pump, fuel flow to carb, reed valves good, and work your way out to engine bolts and seals.
Has anyone worked on this engine before you got it?

[panamaguy]

Thanks Redcloud!Here's a brief history of my cart;It was purchased by the Sumit golf club in Panama City,Panama in 1991 and sold in 1996 and brought to Taboga island.It has been" worked over" not on since then.When I bought it 2years ago it was sort of running,with a little elbo grease and some knowledge of how things work I got it to the point it was a daily driver.I decided to do some major repairs as the frame was rusted through in a few spots.Since then I've been hooked and am trying to make it the best I can with parts when I can get them.Importing from the U.S is expensive but sometimes my only option.O.K enough of the wineing,I did disconnect the line to the carb and it doe's pulse fuel.I will pull the pulser line from the block and make sure I have some preasure.I will also check the head bolts for tightness.If I pull the head or the exaust from the block can I reuse the gaskets? If not what kind of gasket material or Permatex can I use?Yesterday It made it about 200 yards before I had to shut down and put it reverse wouldn,t start so I pushed it home and that's when I got the crazy idea to torch it,LOL.I realy like this cart and also like the support on this forum !

[redcloud]

Have you released the muffler so you have some exhaust release when it runs? Just checking to see that you do not have a plugged muffler.
Yes you can use the exhaust gasket again if it is not shot but many I have heard take that gasket off and go without it, just saying as last resort on that.
Head gasket is poss to reuse but if it is crushed pretty good probably not good idea. you are in the area of 16#'s tourqe on those head bolts so you do not really compress the gasket and need a good one that will fill the void well but again not to say you couldn't try it.
I would do this first now that I think of it. Take off the intake at the engine block and see if you have failed reeds. you may be getting some compression pulses back into the carb when it runs causing the gas leakage. I say this as you mentioned the leak even with a new carb.
You will see what the piston looks like on top and the cylinder walls when you take the head off and that will help you some also. could even have a hole in the piston causing some over block pressure. For a small engine there are many things that can go wrong that lead you all over the place. Good luck.

[panamaguy]

Thanks again Redcloud,I'll give it a shot in the AM. and let you know what I see.Panama

[panamaguy]

OK,long story short,pulled the head,saw a pin hole top center in the piston,saw that the piston was "chewed-up on one side.Next I pulled the head,the top ring was fused to the piston and the piston was scored.So I said what the hell and pulled the motor.The cylinder looks ok.and I think I can get it machined here but am not sure what piston to put back in.Have seen pistons 50 over and less,I ain't lookin for speed just dependability.I will replace the seals while the motor's out,anything else I should replace while I'm at it?I figure if I rebuild this puppy right it should out-last me L.O.L.Any ideas or recs. are more than welcome.Thanks,Panama

[redcloud]

Well you found it, good going. you can get over sized piston that would work but may need to hone the cylinder to fit. One thing to check is the rod play at crank. Take the rod and roll engine so you have it up all the way after you take the jug off. Take the rod and move it back and forth side to side for play. You should have a small amount of play but not a rattling play. If you have play you may want to do a long block rebuild that would give you the crank with rod, piston, new jug, seals, bearings and gaskets. Probably around $500 in your area. But then again, if it does not move much you can just do the hone and new piston. your choice.