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12-21-2016, 05:31 PM | #11 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 28
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
Thanks for that! now I can move on to trouble shooting the rest. It unfortunately still will not turn over. The brake pedal has a switch with two wires that are not connected to anything and I cannot see anything to connect them to. There is also a black wire and a white wire from the on/off switch that are not connected to anything. They might just be for lights but I'm not sure
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12-21-2016, 06:00 PM | #12 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 28
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
and I connected the starter/generator to the solenoid a1,f1,a2 on the solenoids like it showed in the diagram
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12-21-2016, 08:42 PM | #13 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,875
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
Did you find the serial number? The main wire harness runs along the passenger side of the brake access panel frame work. There should be corresponding male and female bullet connectors to attach the stop switch leads to the main wire harness. Once all connections are made, the yellow and light blue wires at the solenoids "activate" the f/r solenoids depending on witch direction the ignition switch position it is in.
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12-21-2016, 10:26 PM | #14 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 28
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
Yes I'm attaching it to the post. The connections for the accel/pedal look fine to me, as do the ones coming from the ignition. I can't find anything that goes to the ones coming from the break pedal.
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12-22-2016, 04:18 PM | #15 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,875
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
Ok, the pictures tell a story. In the wiring diagram, those old G1's had 2 stop switch's, yours has been updated to the newer single 4 wire stop switch. The other 2 wire stop switch means nothing now. Try this, with your meter, negative lead on battery negative post, check for 12 volts positive on the yellow and blue solenoid activation leads. You will need to have the key switch in forward/reverse position and press the accelerator pedal. If you don't get the 12 volts, you have a battery/fuses/wire harness/ignition switch or stop switch problem. If you do have 12 volts on this test, then you have a ground problem. Let us know what your readings are.
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12-22-2016, 06:08 PM | #16 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 28
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
okay just did the test. The reverse solenoid read 10.25 when in reverse with pedal pressed down. It read nothing when in forward, regardless of pedal. The forward solenoid read 10.25 as well when in forward and with the pedal pressed down. It read nothing when in reverse, regardless of pedal. Does this mean a grounding issue?
The Battery is at 12 volts currently but i have tried it with more charge as well |
12-23-2016, 09:52 AM | #17 |
Sometime's............
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,875
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
Some where you loosing almost 2 volts. Do the solenoids "click"?
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12-23-2016, 06:10 PM | #18 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 28
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
yes they do click
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12-24-2016, 07:59 AM | #19 |
maintaining a low profile
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SW Virginia USA
Posts: 6,316
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
When they click, do you have continuity between the high current cables?
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12-25-2016, 01:04 AM | #20 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 28
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Re: G1 Solenoid wiring
where should I look for the 2 lost volts? How do I test for continuity? 12 volts at the big solenoid posts?
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