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Old 06-15-2011, 04:18 PM   #11
Dave Box
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

OK I understand but I think that you first need to put the pulsar ring in the middle of its range. Imagine that in the center it is 20 degrees BTDC (which is where it should be). Now you crank the ring hard over and it could be say 30 degrees BTD in forward which would also be 10 degrees BTDC in reverse. Now I know that you don't think it makes any difference but I think you will find that everyone with a 2PG engine runs it in the center with good results. So let us rule out the timing and see where we can go from there.

There are very few things that can affect the engine performance in one direction only. One is the crankshaft seals being worn, which yours are not, still it might be worth putting it on axle stands running it reverse and spraying some WD40 onto the rear seal. If it seems to get more excited you may have a bum seal. Sadly there is no way to test the front seal other than inspection.

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Old 06-16-2011, 07:42 PM   #12
BrewCityMusic
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

Hey Dave - I thought I'd run this by you and see if it might not make sense to someone but me ... Let's say there's a fault somehow with the F/R switch assembly, it would allow sufficient contact to run for awhile in forward (until warmed up, when the problem was aggravated) but not sufficient to pass the needed juice in reverse - now granted, there are seperate "switches" for each direction / current path, but couldn't bad contacts in the rotary switch itself explain these symptoms?

I remember mine didn't work at ALL until I sprayed the hell out of it with contact cleaner and worked it back and forth for awhile, even then it was still tricky until I cleaned it again and sprayed it with some fader lube (which being a sound guy I just happened to have in the arsenal - it's a contact lubricant/protectant designed for sliding contacts such as the faders on a mixing console) ... Might not be the worst idea, just to be safe.

And in my experience, Daves right on with the pulsar - I eyeballed mine dead center (or as close as 2 good eyes and 5 or 6 cold beers could call center) and it's never given me a problem ... Just for grins, pull the pulsar plug and DMM it while turning the engine over with the DMM set to the lowest AC setting - you should be getting about a volt in each direction. I had a pulsar that was broken internally, it ohmed out right where it should have but once it was actually in use it wasn't throwing a consistant signal - if you get any difference in voltage from forward to reverse, you may also have the elusive "tests good but doesn't seem to be doing it's job for some F*&&$* reason" pulsar like I had ...
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:45 AM   #13
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

Hay BREW had the same thing happen to mine the F/R switch and did the same thing with contact cleaner and compressed air working it back and forth. After 3 real good cleanings works like a champ. Might be worth a try a this point what do you have to loose. Clean contacts?
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:15 AM   #14
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

That is a thought boys. If the FNR switch was high resistance in reverse then maybe the engine is cranking too slowly to start, sadly for me I have no intuition so I have to do the touchy feely listening thing but as racin says whatcha gotta lose?

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Old 06-17-2011, 09:03 AM   #15
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

I guess my point is that if the seals are good, then the culprit would have to be something that has different functionality in forward and reverse, IE the switch assembly or possibly the starter/generator (or of course, the associated wiring in each circuit) ... The ground(s) and basic ignition operate the same regardless of directionality, so even thought the poor running in forward is somewhat indicative of a problem there, the least you would expect would be similar trouble in reverse (not a complete lack of running altogether)

Too bad you couldn't somehow reverse the cabling to the starter/generator (theoretically reversing the F/R operation) to eliminate that as a suspect, although I'm still leaning quite a bit towards the switch unit and associated contacts or microswitches - let us know what you find after cleaning it up real good
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Old 06-17-2011, 03:56 PM   #16
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

Hey BCM, that gets me thinking. If the starter/generator wore it's bushes down in a specific direction, they may be making poor contact when going forward, eventually draining the battery and weakening the spark.

However, when in reverse, the bushes push back in the other direction, and likely forces them to make better contact generating proper spark.

Hmmmm.
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:51 PM   #17
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

scooter, you may have point. a lot of weird stuff can happen on these 30+ year old carts.
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:53 PM   #18
racin161
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

Not hard to check & replace brushes ya'all might be on to something.Clean the F/R switch & check the brushes HUMMMM
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:46 AM   #19
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

BTW - bushes = brushes

Apparently my r key was sticking yesterday
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:45 PM   #20
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Default Re: 90 Marathon running poor after rebuild

Fellow 30+ cart nuts, the suggestions are all good and the FR switch I did not consider or think of, I did rebuild the starter gen. I havent messed with the cart this weekend as it was planned for other things (honey do now),
Tonight Iam going to do what Dave says and put everything back to stock, check all connections and clean the FR switch.
I'll report back tomorrow. Jim
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