new to me 83' doesnt run

[100Watt]

Hi guys. Great site.
Stumbled onto an old cart that doesn't run. It's an 83' 2pg. It turns over, has good spark, and compression(110). Fuel pump is working as well (shoots fuel out 3-5"). I pulled the carb and cleaned everything. Still nothing. Previous owner says it needs crank seals. I pulled the motor last night and now am debating on whether or not to try and just throw seals in or an entire rebuild. I'm finding the rebuild kit for just over $300. I'm tempted to just do the seals since its fairly easy to pull the motor. There doesn't appear to be any side to side slop in the crank so I'm thinking the bearings might be fine. Can I change out just the seals?

Also there was fuel sitting in the exhaust pipe when I unbolted it from the engine. Is that common? Maybe filled up from cranking it earlier and it not starting? I know the carb float is working.

Thanks, for any input.

[cart around]

Compression at 110 is good. I would change the crankshaft seals, and check the fuel pump diaphragms because of fuel in the exhaust pipe. I would also check for a clogged exhaust.

No slop in the bearings, and good compression. I don't think you would gain anything with a rebuild

[100Watt]

Thanks for the input. I'm trying to pull the clutch off now. The flywheel seems pretty straight forward. I've gotta stop by my buddies place and grab a puller for the flywheel. The clutch seems a little more difficult. I'm sure I can find some direction with a little research on the ol' interweb! I'm ordering my parts tomorrow once I get it all apart.

[cart around]

Yours is an 83, so the threads might be different. The standard procedure for other mid 80's carts is this.

Remove the center bolt from the clutch. Take a brass, or aluminum rod that is larger than the bolt diameter, and drop it into the hole. Then screw a 3/4" fine thread bolt on top of that to push the clutch off of the shaft.

I don't recall the exact length of the rod, but long enough that the big bolt doesn't bottom out on the upper threads, and short enough that you are working with more than 2, or 3 threads. You don't want to strip them.

I used an air impact. It was easier to hold the clutch from turning that way.

If you don't have access to one, remove the spark plug, and stuff some rope into the cylinder. Bring the piston up solid against the rope. That will prevent the crankshaft from turning while you crank down on the 3/4" bolt. Tighten it good, tap around a little then tighten again. It will eventually pop off.

This is the puller that ezgo would like you to buy.

[ldj1002]

Originally Posted by cart around

Yours is an 83, so the threads might be different. The standard procedure for other mid 80's carts is this.

Remove the center bolt from the clutch. Take a brass, or aluminum rod that is larger than the bolt diameter, and drop it into the hole. Then screw a 3/4" fine thread bolt on top of that to push the clutch off of the shaft.

I don't recall the exact length of the rod, but long enough that the big bolt doesn't bottom out on the upper threads, and short enough that you are working with more than 2, or 3 threads. You don't want to strip them.

I used an air impact. It was easier to hold the clutch from turning that way.

If you don't have access to one, remove the spark plug, and stuff some rope into the cylinder. Bring the piston up solid against the rope. That will prevent the crankshaft from turning while you crank down on the 3/4" bolt. Tighten it good, tap around a little then tighten again. It will eventually pop off.

This is the puller that ezgo would like you to buy.

I wouldn't put rope in the cylinder and push piston against it. What would be the difference in doing that and having a hydraulic lock and trying to turn the engine against that? None, you might bend the rod. You may do it several times with no problem but sooner or later you will come up with a clutch that is really hard to remove and and bend that rod. Read about hydraulic in engine cylinder and make up your own mind.

[cart around]

I'm familiar with liquid lock, and removing the spark plugs from the bottom jugs of a 9 cylinder radial engine to drain the oil that leaked by the rings overnight.

The damage occurs when a high speed starter slams the piston into the oil, and another cylinder fires at the same time. All of that inertia is what bends rods.

Easing the piston up to the top of its stroke into a piece of rope, and applying a little pressure is not going to bend a rod.

If he chooses to not take my advice, I won't be heart broken. I'm not the one struggling to remove a clutch.

[ldj1002]

Originally Posted by cart around

I'm familiar with liquid lock, and removing the spark plugs from the bottom jugs of a 9 cylinder radial engine to drain the oil that leaked by the rings overnight.

The damage occurs when a high speed starter slams the piston into the oil, and another cylinder fires at the same time. All of that inertia is what bends rods.

Easing the piston up to the top of its stroke into a piece of rope, and applying a little pressure is not going to bend a rod.

If he chooses to not take my advice, I won't be heart broken. I'm not the one struggling to remove a clutch.

Like you I won't be heart broken if he doesn't take my advice. I've flew behind radials for 35+ years and I have saw young pilots bend a rod by pulling the prop by hand too hard hoping they wouldn't have to pull plug to drain. The only way to get a lock is that cylinder would have to be coming upon compression with both valves closed, otherwise the oil would run on out past the valves. With that cylinder on compression no other cylinder could fire, they wouldn't be on compression.

[cart around]

9 cylinders, and 4 strokes. At least one has to be on the same stroke. You are also talking about somebody hanging off of five feet of propeller blade, not a 12 inch ratchet.