Jump off and push...

[sccowboy]

The only line going to the airbox is from the front of the pcv valve. The fuel pump pulse line should go to the side of the pcv assembly. It being dry is a good sign but you may have a faulty pump. The new one should eliminate that issue. Just make sure the lines are going to the right nipples on the pump. Yes, it could be enough to stop the pump from operating but likely would blow some into the air box and you should have seen evidence of the liquid in the pulse line. You can lift one side of the cart to get all the oil out but the amount left just below the filter assembly is relatively negligible. It will likely be something simple. Once you square away the fuel flow issue, you can then move to checking other things. I recommend getting the service guide for both the cart and the engine. The trouble shooting steps in them are invaluable.

[RedRooster]

Got it. I do have the tech manual and service/parts manual....I'm trying to eliminate least expensive first..ha. I've noticed that when I changed the oil last couple of times it still went to the "full" line...I was pretty careful using liquid measure to get 1.5 qts. I'll double check it all. Thanks again.

[sccowboy]

it only matters if its been lifted because the engine angle changes with the lift

[RedRooster]

New fuel pump definitely pumps better, but didn't help. pulse line was clean and dry. Spark was tested and good. I'm almost getting an electrical smell at times, but can't put my finger on it. Now even NOT under load it sounds like something is holding it back. Took off air filter/cover...no better. The hotter the engine gets it seems the slower it starts to get. I'm out of ideas.

[sccowboy]

try this:

Test Procedure 7 - Starter/Generator (Starter Function)

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Disconnect the wires from all the terminals on the starter/generator. Then place the black (-) probe of a
multimeter, set to ohms (O), on the starter/generator housing (scratch through the paint to insure a
good ground). While holding the black probe against the housing, place the red (+) probe (one at a
time) on the A1, A2, F1, F2 and DF terminals respectively (Figure 12-25, Page 100). The readings
should be no continuity. If the readings are incorrect, the starter/generator will need to be removed
from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator,
Page 107).
An incorrect reading from A1 or A2 terminal indicates three possible problems: 1) a grounded A1 or A2
terminal, 2) a grounded wire in the brush area, or 3) a grounded armature/commutator.
If the F1 or F2 reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded F1 or F2 terminal or a grounded
field coil.
If the DF reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded DF terminal or a grounded field coil.

4. Disconnect the ground wire from the A2 terminal and the green wire from the A1 terminal on the
starter/generator. Using a multimeter set to ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the A1 terminal and
the black (-) probe on the A2 terminal. The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, a possible open or poor contact in a brush assembly and/or open armature
windings maybe the cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled
by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator, Page 107).

5. Disconnect the green wire from the F1 terminal and the white wire from the F2 terminal on the starter/
generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the F1 terminal and the
black (-) probe on the F2 terminal. The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, a possible open field coil or bad connections at terminals may be the cause.
The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician

6. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal and the green wire from the F1 terminal on the starter/
generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the DF terminal and the
black (-) probe on the F1 terminal. The reading should be between 4.5 to 5.5 ohms (O).
If the reading is incorrect, a possible grounded DF terminal and/or grounded field coil may be the
cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified
technician


Test Procedure 9 - Starter/Generator (Generator Function)

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal on the starter/generator. Cover the connector on the
yellow wire to make sure the yellow wire will not short to ground. Then, using a jumper wire, ground the
DF terminal to the A2 terminal. Using a multimeter set to Volts DC (20v range), place the red (+) probe
on the positive (+) post of the battery, and place the black (-) probe on the negative (-) post. Turn the
key switch to the ON position, and depress the accelerator to start the engine. Run the engine at full
governed speed. The reading should show voltage rising on the meter. If voltage rises, see Test Procedure
10 - Voltage Regulator. If the voltage does not rise, see Starter/Generator Repair, Pages 107-116.

4. Reconnect the yellow wire to the (DF) terminal on the starter/generator.


Test Procedure 10 - Voltage Regulator:

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Start the engine and check engine-governored RPM. The reading should be between 2670-2730 RPM.
If it is not, adjust the accelerator cable at the electrical component box (See Fuel System, Section 14).

4. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, and with proper ventilation, run the engine for several
minutes to bring the voltage regulator to operating temperature, then release the accelerator pedal
to stop the engine. Using a multimeter set to DC volt (DCV), place the red (+) probe on the large post of
the solenoid with the red wire from the voltage regulator attached. Place the black (-) probe on the negative
(-) post of battery. Depress the accelerator to start the engine, and run it at full governed speed. If
the reading is between 14.7 and 15.3 volts, the regulator is good. If the reading is lower than 14.7 volts
but rising steadily, check battery condition (See Hydrometer Test, Page 12. If the reading is lower
than 14.7 volts and not rising, and the starter/generator is good; or if the reading is over 15.3 volts and
continues to rise, replace voltage regulator

[RedRooster]

14.8 volts when charging. Can't check the starter stuff just yet. Adjusted the float in carb...checked gaskets...again. Loosened gas cap while riding on a board...did nothing. Watched clutches...front one seemed a bit sticky, but hard to tell since it's the only one I've owned...looked like it was functioning.
Found a white wire coming out from behind cooling fan under air box...not connected to anything...probably going to have to bring it somewhere. Thanks

[RedRooster]

I took a ride on a redneck seat last night to watch the clutches again. Driven looks good and smooth...belt is even with outer diameter of clutch (1 3/16) and doesn't ride above (some have asked). Front drive clutch appears to be working, but noticed that as I stopped the clutch "popped" open the last half inch or so.
I also pulled the plugs to check gap...drivers side looked good...pass side was black and sooty, but not oily...dry. Im getting close to buying a vanguard....

[RedRooster]

New primary clutch....NO better.