Still noisy fe290 engine, getting louder

[mrlmd]

Link to a YouTube video and text here. Hit the little down arrow to the right of the text under the video to read the whole message.)Any suggestions where to go next would be greatly appreciated.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XI6rT96xswM

[ironmonkey17]

Can you Pull the clutch off and leave the s/g pulley on and start it...

[BLACK DEATH]

Hard to tell what it is. My clutch is noisy in my 99 but I haven’t driven it in a year so I can’t recall what it sounds like

[kirbdoc]

Sounds similar to mine before I replaced the driven clutch

[mrlmd]

I think I found the problem. The knocking noise is gone if I remove the drive belt and inspecting the driven clutch, one of the ramp buttons is missing so that's probably the cause of the banging noise. It appears that the bolt that held it on has broken off flush with the moveable face of the clutch assembly and there's no way to get that out other than drilling it and maybe retapping the bolt hole, so it's probably better to get a new driven clutch. Or I could get a new face plate with bushing and 3 buttons. I'd have to look into that. But my problem now is how to get the clutch off the shaft, it's solidly attached with probably 16 years of rust and wont budge, I did get the end retaining bolt out, sprayed the shaft end with WD40 for now, banged lightly with a hammer to try and break it free but it won't move. Can I use a 3 jaw screw puller or will that crack the aluminum? Also any advice for what kind of clutch to replace mine with if I can't get parts to repair it?

[mrlmd]

Well the screw puller did absolutely nothing, cranking it down as hard as I could go, except deforming and cracking the outer disk of the clutch. Easy fix with JB Weld. Banging it fairly hard horizontally using a crowbar to get to the inner pulley didn't move it at all. My next step is probably a torch and bang it again, or just break it off and use a cutoff wheel to get it off the shaft. Can't believe it's so stuck on there. I did get the bolt and washer off the end of the shaft, there's nothing else that holds it on, right? Anybody have any other ideas?

[lockman1]

If you cracked the outer sheave, don’t bother to fix it, it’ll just break off!
Might as well find a different driven clutch, and cut that one off of the shaft!
Check out Springboks “Driven Clutch Nightmare” thread... lots of info there!

[mrlmd]

That's what I'm about to do, destroy this one and cut it up or use a torch to try and get it off the shaft. In the meantime, anyone have recommendations for a new clutch? I've seen aftermarket driven clutches for ~$130-135 or OEMs for $230+. Any difference for a cart used 2-3x/week riding around the neighborhood?

[Spicyunicorn]

I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for if it was me I'd pay the extra 100 for oem especially on a clutch

[mrlmd]

Finally got the whole friggin thing off today after spending 12 days on and off breaking it (partly from using a 3 jaw puller which basically ripped it apart, including the inner cast cam part, because it was so tightly stuck with rust), cutting it up with a Dremel type tool and cutting disk, soaking it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, banging on it with a heavy hammer and wedging it apart until it finally gave up and came off. Even the key on the shaft was thoroughly welded with rust on to the shaft.
If anyone wants a slightly used driven clutch, I'll send it to you, it just needs a bit of reassembly. Pics are below.
Now I have 2 more questions -
Is there enough room between the end of the shaft and the frame to slide a new clutch on there, or am I looking at another problem to get the new one on?
And the key on the shaft is the last thing to go on/in before the end bolt is screwed in? (Otherwise how would you get the new clutch on as the sleeve is not slotted all the way?)