g2 stalling

[ShawnQ]

Originally Posted by CP241

Glad you got it up and going! Best part is, for $30 it's got a lifetime warranty from most parts stores and they keep it in stock if it ever happens to go bad :) enjoy!

Thanks again!

Now I need to dig into the brakes. I have almost no stopping power...

I am tempted to scrap the rear drums and go with front discs, but as rough as the cart is I hate to dump money into it.

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[sho305]

I bought shoes to do my brakes, got into it and they were fine. Found they were glazed and dirty so cleaned and light sanding to them and drums. Mostly the lever that runs the shoes was rusted or dirty and not working well, cleaned it really well and brakes worked fine. I can lock them on grass with knobby 22s, made a huge difference and I still have new shoes lol sitting there. Really they stop fast up to about 30mph, then you start to tell fronts would help, at least in good traction conditions. In the snow or down steep hills they do what they can. Of course I hit 41mph gps the other day that was fast for me, but I never ride that fast it was just a test.

[Shepard]

Originally Posted by CP241

G2 does not have advance ignition to begin with from what I understand. I dont think it does anything for advance but I'm certainly not hurting for performance. My G9 is on 20" Tires and will run 20mph all day, and the governor is NOT tightened down.

If you go to the link you will see that the Yamaha ignition module has an advancing ignition curve. I would be very careful using any module with no advance built in.




http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...-g9-specs.html

[bbdoc]

CP241,
I am going planning to dig into this tomorrow finally. My wiring harness is in good shape and I don’t want to destroy it. I have the diagram, the parts, and have located the two striped wires from the flywheel. I have removed the old ignitor (i’m not sure it’s OEM, the symbol looks like the Mitsubishi logo) and taped off the plug to stay clean and out of the way. I am hoping to get power from near the three wires going to the ignition coil and avoid having to destroy anything from the original harness and connectors. the ignition coil seems to contain the black ground, red/white power and the orange wire.
Am I able to use that red/white power?

[CP241]

You can use the red/white power, or just use a ring terminal on the switched side of the solenoid and bypass the OEM wiring harness all together.

[bbdoc]

So I could put a ring terminal onto the ignition coil, and split that wire to go to the new ignitor and ballast? Would I leave the stick harness hooked up or unplug from the ignition coil?

[bbdoc]

I realized you said a ring terminal on the solenoid not the ignition coil. Which side is the switched side?

[bbdoc]

CP241,
I ended up cutting and using the original red power going to the ignition coil. Hooked everything up and had no spark. I did not run a new ground to the ignition coil as I assumed/hoped the original would still be grounded to the battery. I am assuming that since I removed the old ignitor, I may have lost ground or power from the factory harness going to the ignition coil.
I am going to run a seperate ground right from the coil to the battery.
I also will try to run the power from its own ring terminal. I just want to verify which side is the switched side?

[CP241]

The coil has 2 connections. Power and signal (ground pulse) from the ignition module.

It's much easier to run your own 2 wires to the coil than try to use what's in the factory harness