2007 DS overheated now won't go

Speedchaser · 10-06-2012, 05:53 PM

There is a speed sensor test in the stickies, just for the fun of it try that.

Speedchaser · 10-06-2012, 06:02 PM

Also, do a load test on the battery that had the loose cable.

mlpickett · 10-06-2012, 06:06 PM

Reverse buzzer yes. Braking? I don't think so. It is on jacks right now. I will check.

mlpickett · 10-07-2012, 05:49 PM

The back up beeper works. The self braking does not. The cart won't move at all so I cannot do the other test.

I tested the OBC and it apparently fails. The light blue wire has 40.7 volts on both sides of the connector. Moving on to step 4. The plugging the charger in does not make the dash light illuminate and the cart does not move. The red wire is 50.7.

So. Although the reading on the blue wire is not zero, I think the OBC is bad and start removing it.

Thats when i discover thenSolenoid had a loose cable The blue wire on rear small terminal came off while I was trying to remove the OBC. I tested the wire to see if had voltage to it. It read 50+ volts but did not change whether the pedal was pressed or not. The other terminal read 20+ volts also no change with pedal pressed.

A few days ago I was testing the solenoid and accidentally shorted between the big positive lug and the small lug with the loose wire. The may be why the wire came loose. Nd now the nut on the small connector I stripped at the top of its bolt and I can't get it off or back on.

Speedchaser · 10-08-2012, 01:17 PM

Did your solenoid stop clicking after you shorted the terminals?

mlpickett · 10-08-2012, 01:31 PM

The solenoid will still operate if I unhook the batteries and wait awhile or if I not wire it. So I don't think the short fried the solenoid. But it could have caused a bad connection to the small terminal. I know I have to fix that.

What is puzzling me is the reading of 20 volts on the other small terminal and the fact that the pedal position has no effect on either voltage. The other mystery is why the light blue wire from the OBC is on reading 40 volts.

I will fix the solenoid connection and see what happens.

mlpickett · 10-22-2012, 01:35 PM

Update

I have repaired the small terminal on the solenoid. I also traced the two small leads from the solenoid more thoroughly. The pale blue one leads to the on/off key switch and carries 50+ volts. The other is blue with a white stripe and does lead into the controller. It is showing 20 volts. Which is apparently the problem preventing the solenoid from engaging. Neither reading changes when the pedal is pressed.

I disconnected the blue and white striped lead and ran a jumper to the negative battery post. The solenoid engaged but the motor did not turn. It actually moved the rear wheels in reverse a few inches. Then it started smoking and I quickly disconnected everything. Then I checked the continuity of the motor to be sure it wasn't damaged and it passed. Whew.

The controller is new. Could it be bad? Or I am I dealing with a bad OBC?

Any help would be appreciated. What could be causing the 20 volts going to the solenoid?

10-06-2012, 05:53 PM	#21
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go There is a speed sensor test in the stickies, just for the fun of it try that.
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909

10-06-2012, 06:02 PM	#22
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Also, do a load test on the battery that had the loose cable.
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909

10-06-2012, 06:06 PM	#23
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Reverse buzzer yes. Braking? I don't think so. It is on jacks right now. I will check.
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-07-2012, 05:49 PM	#24
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go The back up beeper works. The self braking does not. The cart won't move at all so I cannot do the other test. I tested the OBC and it apparently fails. The light blue wire has 40.7 volts on both sides of the connector. Moving on to step 4. The plugging the charger in does not make the dash light illuminate and the cart does not move. The red wire is 50.7. So. Although the reading on the blue wire is not zero, I think the OBC is bad and start removing it. Thats when i discover thenSolenoid had a loose cable The blue wire on rear small terminal came off while I was trying to remove the OBC. I tested the wire to see if had voltage to it. It read 50+ volts but did not change whether the pedal was pressed or not. The other terminal read 20+ volts also no change with pedal pressed. A few days ago I was testing the solenoid and accidentally shorted between the big positive lug and the small lug with the loose wire. The may be why the wire came loose. Nd now the nut on the small connector I stripped at the top of its bolt and I can't get it off or back on.
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-08-2012, 01:17 PM	#25
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Did your solenoid stop clicking after you shorted the terminals?
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909

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10-08-2012, 01:31 PM	#26
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go The solenoid will still operate if I unhook the batteries and wait awhile or if I not wire it. So I don't think the short fried the solenoid. But it could have caused a bad connection to the small terminal. I know I have to fix that. What is puzzling me is the reading of 20 volts on the other small terminal and the fact that the pedal position has no effect on either voltage. The other mystery is why the light blue wire from the OBC is on reading 40 volts. I will fix the solenoid connection and see what happens.
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-22-2012, 01:35 PM	#27
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Update I have repaired the small terminal on the solenoid. I also traced the two small leads from the solenoid more thoroughly. The pale blue one leads to the on/off key switch and carries 50+ volts. The other is blue with a white stripe and does lead into the controller. It is showing 20 volts. Which is apparently the problem preventing the solenoid from engaging. Neither reading changes when the pedal is pressed. I disconnected the blue and white striped lead and ran a jumper to the negative battery post. The solenoid engaged but the motor did not turn. It actually moved the rear wheels in reverse a few inches. Then it started smoking and I quickly disconnected everything. Then I checked the continuity of the motor to be sure it wasn't damaged and it passed. Whew. The controller is new. Could it be bad? Or I am I dealing with a bad OBC? Any help would be appreciated. What could be causing the 20 volts going to the solenoid?
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

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