Not charging right

[optikid]

[optikid]

does that fuse look bad?

[Xact1]

Nope, looks good to me.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

The fact that when you jumped that fuse to the battery pack and the charger acknowledged it by increasing amperage proves that your charger is not the issue. If it's clicking on and humming, but you're not getting a response from the gauge it's because it's not detecting the battery pack on the negative side. The only things on the negative side that can keep this from working are..

A. The receptacle itself (Not your issue because it wouldn't have worked with the jumper test if it was)

B. The fuse in question. Check it with a meter. No it doesn't "Look" bad. But that doesn't mean it's good.

C. The on-board computer internal and external connections. Make sure you hooked up the #10 black wire behind the OBC to the B- controller post. If that connection isn't made you won't get any response either.

[optikid]

New fuse, still no good. one day it was fine the next it was not, so how do i check the obc?
Thanks

[optikid]

bump

[TahoeDawgZ71]

The test with the jumper wires I described on the first page will help you narrow it down to the OBC.

[optikid]

i did nothing happened

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by optikid

i did nothing happened

You jumped both the grey wire and the black wire on the back of the receptacle to B- on the battery pack and nothing happened? If battery pack voltage is 36 volts or higher, you've got a Bad charger relay.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Here read this.... I have this saved on my hard drive so I can send it to people to help with situations like this...

The first thing to do is to look at all of the battery wiring on the cart. Make sure you have no broken wires. Take a good look especially at the 10 gauge RED wire that comes out of the charger receptacle and hooks up to the positive post on battery #1. If it's broken, fix it. The next thing to try is to make sure that the battery pack has at least 36 Volts. If not, it doesn't have enough power to engage the coil in the charger relay. A quick way to test this is a simple listening test. When you attempt to run the vehicle, do you hear the solenoid click on the cart? The solenoid requires the same amount of voltage to engage as does the charger relay. If it clicks, the cart has enough power to engage the relay as well. If that all checks out good, take a look at the 3/8 amp fuse inside the yellow fuse holder behind the charger receptacle (only on DS and Carryall models, Precedent models are unfused) Check this fuse with an ohm meter as the element in it is so small it's hard to visibly determine if it's blown or not. If that fuse is bad, replace it. If it's good, try to tug on the grey wire in the back of the charger receptacle. They often break internally and can cause the charger not to communicate with the on-board computer of the vehicle. If it's broken you may disassemble the receptacle and solder it back together, or replace the receptacle. The final test requires the use of a home-made jumper wire with alligator clips on both sides. Re-install the fuse into the yellow fuse holder on the receptacle side of the holder, not the harness side. Then, attach one side of the jumper wire to the tip of the fuse. Plug charger into wall. Plug charger into cart. Nothing will happen at this time. Next, touch the other side of the jumper wire to the MAIN negative battery post. This is the very last battery post in the series and has a black wire attached to it that runs through a small hole in the On-Board computer. Immediately when the jumper wire touches this post, the charger relay should click. What you're doing is manually triggering the relay by applying negative current to the relay. This is a function that the On-Board computer should be doing. If this trick works and your charger clicks, there's a problem with your on-board computer and it must be replaced. Let me know if I can be of any further help.