DS IQ will not run, NEW batteries just installed

[omalley]

OK, old batteries gave up the ghost and needed to be replaced (bulged and 2 were popped due to idiot hooking up commercial battery charger wrong) . Prior to replacement, car ran fine. I have since replaced all of the batteries and cables on the batteries and replaced the connections on the old positive and negative cables. Now when I turned the key to on and switched the tow run switch to run, the buzzer will sound in either F or R and the cart will not move. I can hear the MCOR switching but cannot distinguish if the solenoid is switching. Since the buzzer is buzzing in either direction, I'm not sure that the FR switch is at fault. I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous but not enough to really be able to fix my problem. I've reset the OBC but nothing has changed. Just how do I go about testing the solenoid? Is there a fuse box anywhere on this? All the connections that I can see are good, the connections inside the FR switch are good but the connections at the motor are somewhat corroded but not excessively like what you'd expect for being outside at the coast for the past couple of years. Suggestions??

Cliffs;
screwed up original batteries due to being a dumb*ss
replaced batteries, cables and lugs
no go forward or reverse
buzzer sounds in F or R
Buzzer sounds when in go mode, cuts off when in tow mode
MCOR makes switching sound
can't hear switching sound from solenoid
reset OBC, no changes
Electrical dummy. Will need testing info in electrical testing for dummy's mode


Suggestions??

Thanks,

OMalley

[omalley]

Bump for the morning crowd

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Pop the F&R switch out. Un-plug all the wires from it. Use a paperclip to jump the orange wire to either of the two other wires. Doesn't matter which one, one is for forward, one is for reverse. If the cart runs you've narrowed your problem down to your switch. If it still doesn't run, you've got a bad controller.

[omalley]

I popped the switch out and jumped the orange to brown wires. No difference. The buzzer will buzz for about 5-6 seconds, stop for about the same amount of time then start back buzzing. I read somewhere on here that when the buzzer does that, it's an indicator of the solenoid. Is that true? If so, how do I test it?

[omalley]

Just jumped the large wires at the solenoid (actually, put them both on the same lug) and still nothing. Looks like it's the MCOR? Is there a microswitch in there that I need to find? How do I trouble shoot that? I guess jump the terminals/

[shadowman]

have you read what david said? if the jumper dosn,t work its the controller? .............i realize that may not be what you want to hear but he works on these things in his sleep and i don,t beleive he would just put that out to have you waste money on a controller.............................

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Thank you again Shadowman.... You've got a bad controller.

[omalley]

I wasn't trying to ignore what he was telling me nor was I trying to offend him. There's just sooooo much info on this site and with me being a complete electrical dummy, figured I would try the easy stuff first.

I guess I'll get a controller ordered

[omalley]

Thanks David.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

You're very welcome.