Reducer totally confused now

Originally Posted by sdriv

So after two failed"cheap"reducers from amazon I ordered up the recommended one from Scotty B who got it here in a snap . So I need to get it in before we leave on Wednesday for our trip. Now before I blow this thing up I need some help. I have all the diagrams and I think I have it figured out but here is my confusion. I tested the current coming out of my key switch and it only reads 27v is this correct?

no ... test it from the main negative to the key (blue wire)
Battery pack reads 50.4

that is good

It seems as if it should be 36/48 based on instructions Next my light kit harness gives me a red fused wire which I gather will go to green on reducer?
yes

And a black which from what I can tell will tie together with the black from reducer and then a piggyback off of those will run to the neg terminal of the battery pack.
that is correct
but it is better to hook to the b- of the controller
Is this making any sense?

attached is a scottyb reducer hook up

[Mooncarter]

Idk. Since you have had trouble before, along with some things that just don't sound right, I'm going to have to defer to others who may understand that setup better.

The ones I have installed have a wire going to pack + and pack - or B- on controller, other 2 going to accessory, or some sort of terminal to run other accessories.

For some reason I can't get your photos to enlarge. I suggest you wait for someone else to help with this one. Especially if you are going to mess with the controller.

Sorry, know you are anxious, good luck with it.

[Mooncarter]

And.....CTD saves the day!

[TahoeDawgZ71]

There should be no frame ground on an electric cart at all. If there is voltage to the frame, you need to find the source and eliminate it. Not only is this unnecessary, but it's dangerous. Do you have any electrical accessories grounded to the frame? If so, they need to be removed and relocated to their correct locations on the battery pack. As for the reducer, It has four wires..........

1 - a 48V Positive Input wire (RED) - This needs to be connected to the MAIN positive battery terminal OR on the solenoid with the red wire that comes from the positive post of battery #1 (same wire, same result)

2 - Yellow. This is a 48v+ trigger wire. This wire turns the reducer on and off. This needs to be connected to the back of your keyswitch with the blue factory wire that is already there. This will allow 48V to travel through the yellow wire and turn the reducer on every time you turn on the key switch.

3 - Green - This is your 12V + output wire. The green wire needs to be connected to the positive wire of your light kit. If you're using a fuse block, you'll connect this green wire to the fuse box and put the red wire from the light kit on one of the fused connection on the opposite side of the fuse block.

4 - And finally, black. The black wire is the NEGATIVE wire, not a true "Ground" commonly found in an automotive application. The black wire should connect to the B- terminal on the motor controller. This is the terminal on your controller that has all of the negative wires on it, including the 6 gauge wire that runs through the OBC. Put it on this post. You could technically connect this wire to the main negative battery post, but the On-Board computer will not be able to accurately monitor "Energy-Units Removed" from the battery pack and can cause charging issues down the road. Put it on the controller and you'll have no issue. The black negative wire from your light kit harness will also go in the same location as the black wire from the reducer. They "share" the negative circuit.

This should cover all of your connections. If you have any trouble please feel free to ask. We are here to help.

[sdriv]

Ok I'm going to try to hook it up. If all your lights go dim in the next 1/2hr or so don't worry it's just me draining the countries power grid

[tag50]

The frame shouldn't be a part of any electrical system on a cart. Were there lights on the cart already? And does this cart have a factory 16v. to 12v. reducer?

PS- Late again, carry on


.

[scottyb]

LOL - yes.
Neg to battery main neg and positive to the key switch wire.

Sorry looks like I'm late to answer

[yawood]

As per your instructions from Scotty, the wires go as follows:

The red and black are the inputs (red +48V and black -ve)
The Green and black are the outputs (green +12V and black -ve)
The yellow is the trigger wire and comes from the +ve side of the key switch (i.e. the 'hot' side of the switch which has 48V when the switch is on)

Notes:

• the -ve 48V and 12V are the same black wire
• test the voltage on the switch by touching your -ve probe on a pack -ve and the +ve probe on each side of the switch. There should be 48V at the switch (permanent on one side and only showing on the other side when the switch is on)

If you don't have 48V at the switch then you have another problem to be rectified.

[yawood]

Whoa - it looks like everyone replied at once!!!

[sdriv]

I put the light kit in and the only other accessorie is the Volt meter so no accessories are grounded to the frame. I just did that testing which was the keyed side of the ignition switch. Wish me luck