Powerdrive Plus Controller Diagnosis

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Pbennison

I finally got the golf cart home. I hooked up positive to the large post that has the positive cable from the battery (plus one small wire). I get 48V at each of the posts on the solenoid. Does not matter if key is in off or on position.

You will read 48 volts across the large terminals when the solenoid is NOT energized. If the solenoid is closing or energizing, you will read 0 volts across the large terminals. You will also read 48 volts from each terminal to B- if it is closing.

It sounds like the solenoid is not being energized. Jack up one rear wheel for safety in case it happens to start. Then connect your DVM [digital voltmeter] to the two small terminals. Set the Run/Tow switch to run, turn on the key switch, set FNR switch in forward, push the accelerator and see if you have 48 volts to the two small terminals.

If you do but the solenoid does not energize, it needs to be replaced.

If not, you probably have an open micro switch in the V-Glide or MCOR 4 if it has been converted. There are only several components that will not let the solenoid energize. Follow the schematic wiring and you will see what is in series with it.

Don't get discouraged like I do a lot, but stay with it and you'll find it. And you'll learn a whole lot in the process.

[Pbennison]

Originally Posted by Tom47

You will read 48 volts across the large terminals when the solenoid is NOT energized. If the solenoid is closing or energizing, you will read 0 volts across the large terminals. You will also read 48 volts from each terminal to B- if it is closing.

It sounds like the solenoid is not being energized. Jack up one rear wheel for safety in case it happens to start. Then connect your DVM [digital voltmeter] to the two small terminals. Set the Run/Tow switch to run, turn on the key switch, set FNR switch in forward, push the accelerator and see if you have 48 volts to the two small terminals.

If you do but the solenoid does not energize, it needs to be replaced.

If not, you probably have an open micro switch in the V-Glide or MCOR 4 if it has been converted. There are only several components that will not let the solenoid energize. Follow the schematic wiring and you will see what is in series with it.

Don't get discouraged like I do a lot, but stay with it and you'll find it. And you'll learn a whole lot in the process.

Thank you. I will do the above tomorrow and post the results.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Tom47

Yes, I found this out the hard way and had to go the IQ harness conversion route.

As a master electrician and HVAC tech, I still had a tough time of it. The harness is nowhere near a direct replacement on the Regen 2 models. It needs a lot of rewiring to work properly. Hardly any of the wire colors are correct. There is no connection for the R/T switch and one had to be improvised.

If you have to do this, start at the controller IQ plug and work your way along to each component. Be aware of all the internal slices which can throw you off. I removed all of the loom on the wiring to be able to see where I was going.

When I finally finished 2 days later, I realized I could have kept the original Regen 2 harness and simply replace the controller plug with an IQ plug to fit the XCT controller.

That "IQ Conversion Harness" is starting to haunt me. I've never sold them but I've had several callers lately who have purchased one from somewhere else and couldn't figure out how to hook them up. That's why I prefer using an OEM DS IQ harness. It's only slightly more expensive, but the lack of headache makes it entirely worth it.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

That "IQ Conversion Harness" is starting to haunt me. I've never sold them but I've had several callers lately who have purchased one from somewhere else and couldn't figure out how to hook them up. That's why I prefer using an OEM DS IQ harness. It's only slightly more expensive, but the lack of headache makes it entirely worth it.

I got the harness from Scotty. It is an OEM IQ harness. It is not plug and play on Regen 2 carts like some of the other model years. I think the Regen 2 cars like mine do not need the harness, especially if you already installed an MCOR 4 kit.

There is no provision in the IQ harness for a Run-Tow switch connection. The only way to connect it is to break the B+ wire that goes to the key switch, and then make all of the wire connections that are between the R/T and the key switch by hand. I've got splices all over the place.

When I compared the original wire harness with the IQ one, there are only 5 wires that are correct in color. This made ringing out each wire necessary.

There also is no plug for the MCOR. It has to be spliced to the 5 MCOR wires. The only plug it does have besides the controller plug is the speed sensor plug.

If I ever have to do another Regen 2 [Very Longshot!] I would get the IQ controller plug and make the connections there. The Regen 2 harness will then work fine and the R/T would already be hooked up correctly.

IT WAS QUITE A JOB AND NOT FOR THE FAINT AT HEART.......LIKE ME!

[Sergio]

There is an "IQ Conversion Harness" like BU sells that you have to "splice" into the existing Regen-2 harness and a "Complete IQ Harness" which is the OEM and replaces the entire cart harness.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Sergio

There is an "IQ Conversion Harness" like BU sells that you have to "splice" into the existing Regen-2 harness and a "Complete IQ Harness" which is the OEM and replaces the entire cart harness.

That explains it!

I thought I was getting the OEM harness from Scotty at Carts Unlimited. Apparently he sells the same one as BU. It was described as a complete harness and had all of the wires needed except for the R/T switch, but everything had to be spliced. Quite a mess! And there are NO INSTRUCTIONS!

Other threads about this say to eliminate the R/T switch. But that makes no sense as some things need to be powered before the key switch to match the IQ wiring diagram.

I would recommend that anyone wanting to upgrade their Regen 2, stay away from the non-OEM harness. It is very expensive [$212.00] for what you get!

[Pbennison]

Wow!!!! I had no idea what I was getting myself into. As stated in the original post I feel pretty confident in my abilities and even looking at the makeup of my current setup, it just does not look that complex. I can obviously see now that these things are pretty complex.

I guess the good news is..........We don't need this until the spring. So, I have about 6 months to diagnose, troubleshoot and get ready for the warm season.

It is so nice to have a forum like this with so many helpful people. We had taken this to a repair shop a few years ago and they replaced the Solenoid. As I started to take things apart I saw two hooked up. Well, they simply unhooked the wires and connected the new Solenoid leaving it hanging there. I mean geeez, it would have taken them about 5 minutes to take the old one out and properly install the new one. Loosen one bolt, slide the old one out, slide the new one in and tighten bolt.

Anyhow, end of rant and I cannot thank everyone enough for the help here. Hopefully I can pay it back down the line because as Tom47 stated, "I will be learning a lot in this process".

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Pbennison

We had taken this to a repair shop a few years ago and they replaced the Solenoid. As I started to take things apart I saw two hooked up. Well, they simply unhooked the wires and connected the new Solenoid leaving it hanging there.

It worries me everytime I take one of my vehicles in for any king of work. They always leave something disconnected or put a big scratch somewhere and say nothing.

[Pbennison]

Ok, just took some readings. I have 0 V across the two small terminals. I also took some other readings that may or may not be of value.

Input Voltage at Controller (Black/Yellow) - 48 V
All four posts at Solenoid with one lead connected to ground - 48 V

"If not, you probably have an open micro switch in the V-Glide or MCOR 4 if it has been converted. There are only several components that will not let the solenoid energize. Follow the schematic wiring and you will see what is in series with it."

Will look into the wiring this morning. I am not sure if this has been converted.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Pbennison

Ok, just took some readings. I have 0 V across the two small terminals.

This is the key. There must be 48 volts across the small solenoid terminals. This is the operating coil.

One side of this coil is B- and the other side is B+. Reading to B-, what you call ground but is not a grounded wire, is the Battery Negative, B-, will give you readings that don't always mean anything concrete due to component backfeeds.

The other side is the Battery Positive, B+, which is energized when the key switch, FNR switch and throttle switch all are closed.

You can jump a small wire from B+ to the positive side of the coil and the solenoid will click if it is working. But be very careful not to jumper the wrong terminal or sparks will fly.

The safer way is to locate and jump each micro switch individually with the batteries disconnected, then reconnect them to see if the solenoid energizes.

Someone else here may have a better description or diagram for doing this safely. I just know what I would do based on familiarity of electrical components.