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Old 10-09-2017, 06:37 PM   #1
Mastiffman
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Default 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

SO my neighbor asked me to take a look at their CC cart.

This is all new to me but I'm familiar with electrical and circuits. The cart wasn't charging at first. Figured out how to bypass the OBC and chargers relay (8.5v across battery bank) and got the bank up to 37v.

No moving in forward or reverse. Reverse buzzer works in reverse. Tried resetting the OBC with Altrex procedure for 5 mins, 10 mins and around 45 minutes. Even disconnected the positive cable along with the negative on the bank one time. NOTHING...

I tried disconnecting the OBC from the wiring harness and then jumping the Blue and White wires and still nothing. I noticed that the resistor on the solenoid is a 250ohm is constantly hot!? 48v carts should have the 500ohm, no? Is there a way to bypass the solenoid?

Thanks.
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:16 PM   #2
mrgolf
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

Does the solenoid close,click.? Sounds like it is not. Check voltage at small solenoid post and large post. Post readings here.

Wait! I just noticed you only have 37 volts. That is not enough to run the cart.
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:40 PM   #3
Mastiffman
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

Thanks for the reply. But no, after getting the bank to 37v I then plugged everything back into the OBC and charged the bank to 49v just for testing purposes... The bank is only about 4 months old but got discharged.

I did check the voltage at the two small terminals and they were both at 49v... And the resistor was hot. I got 49v at the Large Red wire terminal and millavolts at the Large Wire terminal.

I disconnected the battery terminal and jumped the Yellow wire to the large red wire on the solenoid and quickly touched the negative back to the back and zapped the solenoid. NOW, the solenoid does click. It didn't before and NOW the resistor isn't hot...

So anyone experiencing a hot Solenoid resistor, it seems to be because the solenoid is locked up.

SO I unplugged the neg battery cable, put it in TOW and then reverse and turned the key on. No reverse buzzer. I left it like that for around 8-10 mins and reconnected everything, put it in Run and turned the key on and I'm still only getting the solenoid clicking.

I also tried jumping the 6 pin harness White to Blue/ White and tried to the foot pedal in both forward and reverse. Reverse buzzer works but no movement still in either direction???
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Old 10-09-2017, 09:03 PM   #4
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

You may have zapped your controller when you jumped the yellow to the large positive post.

Your 2 small posts should have 48v + & - on them. And it sounds like you do since the solenoid is closing in. The blue/white proved you are not in lockout. Try jumpering the 2 pin connector at your MCOR. If still no movement, I would check the motor and then I believe you will be down to a controller issue after that test....
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:54 AM   #5
Raystar57
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastiffman View Post

I did check the voltage at the two small terminals and they were both at 49v... And the resistor was hot. I got 49v at the Large Red wire terminal and millavolts at the Large Wire terminal.

I disconnected the battery terminal and jumped the Yellow wire to the large red wire on the solenoid and quickly touched the negative back to the back and zapped the solenoid. NOW, the solenoid does click. It didn't before and NOW the resistor isn't hot...

So anyone experiencing a hot Solenoid resistor, it seems to be because the solenoid is locked up.
The resistor is getting hot because the solenoid main contacts inside are not closing fully or have been damaged from excessive arcing.

The high current demand is flowing through the resistor instead of through the solenoid contacts.

Sounds like you cleared it up for the moment but you need to replace it and the resistor.

Since it clicks the controller solenoid drive circuit should be ok.

Just because the solenoid clicks does not mean it can pass the high current demand.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:32 AM   #6
Mastiffman
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
You may have zapped your controller when you jumped the yellow to the large positive post.

Your 2 small posts should have 48v + & - on them. And it sounds like you do since the solenoid is closing in. The blue/white proved you are not in lockout. Try jumpering the 2 pin connector at your MCOR. If still no movement, I would check the motor and then I believe you will be down to a controller issue after that test....

Okay, so the OBC sounds like it's fine?

Okay, so how do I do the MCOR pin jumper? Which pins? on the 4 pin connector or something else? These are all new to me. The Controller is a black Curtis. btw... I was considering cleaning the connections on the couple of motor cables.


What's the SOP for testing the motor. I'm getting matched Bank voltage at the white cable coming out of the controller going to the motor.

checked the voltage at the solenoid and it's reading 49v on the red post and a few volts less on the yellow post until I push the pedal down and then it goes up to full voltage.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:36 AM   #7
Mastiffman
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raystar57 View Post
The resistor is getting hot because the solenoid main contacts inside are not closing fully or have been damaged from excessive arcing.

The high current demand is flowing through the resistor instead of through the solenoid contacts.

Sounds like you cleared it up for the moment but you need to replace it and the resistor.

Since it clicks the controller solenoid drive circuit should be ok.

Just because the solenoid clicks does not mean it can pass the high current demand.

The resistor is newer. The last one was replaced because it was getting hot. But obviously we know why now... The proposed situation was that it was pulled in on a Saturday night, put on the charger as always for the night and then didn't work that next morning. The battery bank was purchased this year in the spring and still nothing. And they don't know anything about the cart other than it has batteries, the resistor was replaced and it has an OBC... So I'm in the dark on it all other than that. I tried asking as many questions as possible to get a good picture.

So maybe the solenoid is the culprit but now I need to test the Motor Controller.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:03 AM   #8
Raystar57
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastiffman View Post
The resistor is newer. The last one was replaced because it was getting hot. But obviously we know why now... The proposed situation was that it was pulled in on a Saturday night, put on the charger as always for the night and then didn't work that next morning. The battery bank was purchased this year in the spring and still nothing. And they don't know anything about the cart other than it has batteries, the resistor was replaced and it has an OBC... So I'm in the dark on it all other than that. I tried asking as many questions as possible to get a good picture.

So maybe the solenoid is the culprit but now I need to test the Motor Controller.
Solenoids can fail just like that.
More than likely the controller is not the problem, it just can't pass current demand due to bad solenoid contacts.
Since the charging has been kept up the batteries should be good.
What is the pack voltage after a full charge and a resting period?

I would start with the solenoid.
I don't know how to bench test the controller.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:29 AM   #9
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: 2004 Club Car, Charging but no moving?

If you are heating up that resistor on the solenoid, you may have a motor problem.

Is this a sepex cart (toggle style FNR switch) or series cart (lever style FNR)?

Test the MCOR by jumpering out the 2 wire connector located at the MCOR under the cart. Just unplug it and place a jumper or paperclip in the harness side plug. Look here http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-diagrams.html to find your specific wiring diagram.

If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", (If you have one) then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it). If you have a Series motor some will have S1/S2 in place of F1/F2.

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms (Sepex only)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Series motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to S1. Then connect 12 volts positive to A2 and 12 volts negative to S2. (swap S1 and S2 to change rotation direction) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.
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