G22 jakes long travel mod

[smokindawg]

I wouldn't want to lift a cart much without going wider. It would get pretty unstable quickly. I'd add width even if the only way I had to do it is with wheel spacers.

You speak of the fab work being no issue and your willing too cut a new and expensive kit to get what you want. I understand they have already done the engineering as well. But, (You knew this was coming, didn't you)most of that engineering goes out the window as soon as you cut or start changing their kit in any way. Also the price of steel isn't such that you couldn't buy enough to build several long travel kits for the price of a Jakes LT kit.

So again, I'd suggest that you think about taking the time and build a kit that will give you the width that you want. Even though I know it would take quite some time too build one that works the way it should and is just what you want, it's the better way to go in my opinion.

Just my .02 and worth what you have to pay for it.

[Dave in VA]

I've never seen one, but there's this...

RHOX A-Arm lift for G22

http://www.franklingolfcar.com/Yamah...11344_a_7c4645

[LimitedEdition]

Dave I had just finished a post on the Yamaha G29/YDR/Drive Club thread about this same subject when I saw your post here. I clicked on the web address you posted for the RHOX A-Arm lift for the G22 and found a lift for the G29. After looking at the video they have, this might be what I have been looking for if I can’t get my Jake’s 6” spindle lift setup working the way I want it to. Thanks a lot.
Robert

[Dave in VA]

Originally Posted by LimitedEdition

Dave I had just finished a post on the Yamaha G29/YDR/Drive Club thread about this same subject when I saw your post here. I clicked on the web address you posted for the RHOX A-Arm lift for the G22 and found a lift for the G29. After looking at the video they have, this might be what I have been looking for if I can’t get my Jake’s 6” spindle lift setup working the way I want it to. Thanks a lot.
Robert

I'm not endorsing the vendor in the link. Check with one of the site sponsors for the availability of this lift, even if it's not shown on their website. They keep this place rolling...

[LimitedEdition]

Dave if I decide to go with the RHOX unit, I always shop around and if the sponsors can give me a good deal, that works for me. When we are looking for information to help someone out we have to post whatever we can find. You are a good man Charlie Brown. LOL
Robert

[Firedowg]

Originally Posted by slonomo

If you shorten the a arms, the shocks may not fit. When you install most shocks, the suspension will be fully extended. A lot of times the shock just barely clears the mounts, can't speak for the Jakes LT kit though. But if that's the case, and you shorten the a arm, the shock may have to be compressed to fit it in the mounts. This risks the shock bottoming out during a full compression in a hard bump.

Also, if you shorten the a arms, you will have to shorten the tie rods as well.

And....the length of the a arms is directly related to the amount of travel you will get. And it will affect the ride and handling being more narrow. When you raise the cart, you want it to be wider for stability. Keeping it narrow will make it more likely to tip sideways in an off camber situation.

I would not advise cutting the a arms. This will create a weak spot in the a arms, no matter how you look at it. A full piece of steel is stronger than two pieces of steel welded together, especially when it is constantly under stress like in a suspension piece.

My 2 cents.

It would just be a matter of shock mount location. looking at the adjustment range of the kit it wouldn't even be a issue. Two pieces welded together? it wouldn't be any different then it was when it was shipped.

[Firedowg]

Originally Posted by smokindawg

I wouldn't want to lift a cart much without going wider. It would get pretty unstable quickly. I'd add width even if the only way I had to do it is with wheel spacers.

You speak of the fab work being no issue and your willing too cut a new and expensive kit to get what you want. I understand they have already done the engineering as well. But, (You knew this was coming, didn't you)most of that engineering goes out the window as soon as you cut or start changing their kit in any way. Also the price of steel isn't such that you couldn't buy enough to build several long travel kits for the price of a Jakes LT kit.

So again, I'd suggest that you think about taking the time and build a kit that will give you the width that you want. Even though I know it would take quite some time too build one that works the way it should and is just what you want, it's the better way to go in my opinion.

Just my .02 and worth what you have to pay for it.

Buy the time i built the kit, bought steel, coil overs it wouldnt save me any money. A stick of good tubing right now is close to $100 alone.

It would be more stable then the spindle lift i have now for sure.

[Firedowg]

Ive been buying steel for this project for the last 5 months. I can say first hand steel price are not low right now.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=199077

[smokindawg]

Originally Posted by Firedowg

Ive been buying steel for this project for the last 5 months. I can say first hand steel price are not low right now.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=199077

Your correct........ New steel prices for projects are pretty high. I try to stay away from those places if possible.

I tend to search the scrap yards and get some pretty good deals buying my materials by the pound. I've picked up a lot of good angle, square tube, pipe and flat steel there, as well as much more. Never know what you may find. They had a whole truck load of 2x4 steel tube in 20' lengths one time I went, but their cut off saw was broken so they couldn't cut me any 10' lengths.

I will probably make mine using A-arms from an ATV once I find a good deal on a donor cart.

[pachanga90]

Wow,glad steel isnt that crazy here,I buy most tubing(round or square/rect.),even thick-wall (DOM- Bushing Material)stuff for $2-3/ft.and thats stuff in the 1"-2" O.D. range mostly.Quanity usually drops the price too.Shop around,small fab-shops sometimes sell at a discount compared to steel suppliers,especially on overstocks and drops.Hope this helps.