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Old 12-16-2014, 11:17 AM   #1
ToolRoomHTX
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Question 2013 EZGO with Kawasaki - Questions on Changing Drive/Driven Springs

I have a few questions on changing the Clutch springs on my cart before I go trying to pull everything out, I have never done this before so I kindly appreciate any and all help:

1) I'm assuming that once I take the belt off I can unbolt and pull the driven clutch off, however I am not sure weather or not I will need a special tool to do this on the Kawasaki motors, If I do, what special tool do I need and where can I find it?

2) Same question for the Drive clutch, and if the answer is yes I need a special tool for this as well, is it a different tool or does the tool work on both the drive and driven?

3) When changing the springs to the do I need a special tool to compress the driven clutch?

I did find the TLS EZ2 5545 Clutch tool, but I'm not sure on if it's the only one I need, also any help on some tips and tricks in this process would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:40 PM   #2
BrewCityMusic
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Default Re: 2013 EZGO with Kawasaki - Questions on Changing Drive/Driven Springs

Yes, You will need that tool for removal as well as some sort of way to compress the clutch to swap springs ... However I'd do a little research on those Kawi clutches first, they are already VERY prone to failure (the driven clutches wear and literally blow apart under stock pressures - hence I believe 2 recalls so far for Fleet cars) and I'd be VERY leery of increasing the stress on them for ANY reason ... There is an available balancer that EZGO issued quietly to many Fleet Vendors, but they are difficult to obtain and from what I have heard, only postpone the inevitable with those driven clutches.

That said, a set of replacement TEAM clutches (available directly through EZGO) will increase torque by a claimed 40% and solve the "impending doom" issue that the stock Kawi clutches come with, however I have used them in the past and really don't like the new torque curve they give - another "fix" I have seen used is to have the driven clutch machined to accept a stronger "C" clip that holds it all together, that's where they wear and eventually fail ...
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