83 G1 intermitten spark problem

[SLYS FARM]

I am going nuts!! I've been at this now for weeks trying to troubleshoot an intermittent spark on an 83 G1. I have tested, repaired, or replaced everything. Literally every connection and inspected wires with a magnifying glass! CDI is good, Magneto is good, the plug, and coil is good, and the pedal switch is good. After every repair spark comes back only to mysteriously disappear after firing up numerous times. I've concluded the problem is happening before the CDI box which led me to consider a faulty pedal switch. I tested the switch which checked out. Because this is an intermittent problem I went ahead and replaced the switch anyway. .I retested the orange coil wire using a test light and once again pulse was good and strong. Checked this a few times by pressing the accelerator and 5 out of 5 times I had a good pulse. I assumed the mystery had been solved and was just about ready to hook everything back up when I decided to check in reverse. . Turned the key to reverse, pressed the pedal, and nothing! pulse was gone. Turn the key back to forward... nothing !!!! With the test light connected to the orange wire, I pumped the accelerator moving around wires to see if I could initiate a random pulse..... nada! Now, this has been happening for weeks!! Spark would come back, the cart would fire up flawlessly 9 out of 10 times then stop. The only thing left that I haven't checked is the ignition key switch and harness connections. I removed the key switch harness. The soldered connections to the switch all look good however the 6-pin and 4-pin connectors do seem to be pretty dirty along with a bit of green corrosion. Is it possible that one of these connections could be the cause of the intermittent spark ???? Could the Key switch itself be defective?? If so, how would I check it? If the switch and harness are not causing the intermittent spark I am at a complete loss for what to check next. I apologize for such a long thread. If you look at my many past threads I've been at this a very long time !!! PLEASE help me solve this mystery

[Cartmaster]

Most likely from what you have done so far is the key switch or a bad ground connection somewhere. You need to do some voltage drop tests to see where you lose good connection. Never forget that grounds are just as important as power connections.

I dont know your cart wiring so cannot suggest much more.

You could try bridging the key switch wires with a jumper with crocodile clips on each end. this would prove the switch one way or another.

[tennbamaman]

i have an old posts whereas AgeLe55 helped me. Long story short, i replaced my original key switch because it not have not need a key. screw driver worked. I bought a cheap one on amazon. Worked great for about a month. I checked everything and just happen to try the original switch and it was back to normal. The amazon switch had some green corrosion on the silver solders as well. Happened again a couple months later. Because i was working on the buggy, the key was sort of left out in the elements. My issue was not intermittent like yours so i do not know. One thing for sure, when i have an issue, the first think i do is break out that old original switch first. lol Good luck and there are a lot of great resources on here that will and can help you.

[SLYS FARM]

In the 6-pin and 4-pin Ignition key switch wire harness, which wire controls power into the CDI and out sending a pulse through the orange? If the problem lies somewhere between the key switch and the foot pedal switch, and the cart cranks over in both directions, which ground point or wires should I focus on? A few days ago after repairing a couple of bullet connections at the pedal switch I had a good spark. I lost it after I turned the key switch to reverse. I understand if the cart fired up in fwd but not reverse it would be an issue with the solenoid. Why would turn the key to reverse short out spark in both directions? How would I check the 6-pin and 4-pin main harness wires? If the key switch harness checks out then the problem must lie within the main harness before the pedal switch. Can anyone tell me how to probe each terminal and what the voltage should read? I'm guessing to check for voltage the negative lead on the multimeter should remain connected to the battery ground? I do have the wiring diagram with all the color-coded wires but am still confused about all the symbols. Different wires have different readings with the pedal pressed and released. Starting with checking for a bad ground, how would I do this at the 6 and 4-pin terminals? Where do I put the probes on the meter? Sorry if I'm repeating asking the same questions this electrical stuff is confusing.