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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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#1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Philippines
Posts: 8
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![]() Hi,
I'm new on the forum. I own an ezgo electric 1994 cart. Recently bought a new speed controller because the old one melted. It could have been from a lightning strike or something of the sort. Problem is, there are no qualified mechanics here where I'm from ( philippines) ![]() Just wanted to know if someone out there can help with troubleshooting why my cart won't run. |
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#2 |
Just me. .
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 1,092
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![]() Does your solenoid click?
Do you have a multimeter? |
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#3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Philippines
Posts: 8
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![]() yes, the solenoid clicks. It's just that when we turn the keyswitch on, the voltmeter doesn't go up even if batteries are fully charged. Also, no response from the motor. Been trying to trace the wiring. Could it be some losses due to corrosion and old wires?
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#4 |
Just me. .
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 1,092
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![]() 1.) Make sure you have continuity through your solenoid when engaged
2.) Verify your F/R switch is not burnt up, and that none of the wires connected to the back are burned off. 3.) Verify that you have 4 solid wires connected to your motor, tug on them (reasonably hard, dont be crazy). 4.) Tug on each battery wire make sure the connection is solid. ~~~~ Something caused your controller to melt, it usually doesn't just happen. Look at your old controller follow the wire that was connected to the post that was burnt.. the other side of that wire is probably the culprit. |
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#5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Philippines
Posts: 8
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![]() the post of the old controller is normal, however, upon opening the controller, i saw the circuit board inside melted.
- upon testing, the F/R witch seems ok. so are the microswitches - i'll get back to you on the rest thanks ... |
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#6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
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![]() hello I'am new to this site, you have helped me out a lot, picked up some good pointers just reading thanks bopool
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#7 |
Golf Cart Photographer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Wichita Falls Texas - My Ride 2010 Club Car
Posts: 6,236
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![]() Welcome to the forum bopool.....................
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#8 |
Golf Cart Photographer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Wichita Falls Texas - My Ride 2010 Club Car
Posts: 6,236
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![]() Welcome to the forum cpgolez................
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#9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Philippines
Posts: 8
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![]() Thanks rusty... Anyway, about my cart.. I still haven't got it running. After changing the controller, it still doesn't run. My mechanic says that I need to change the potentiometer... So I went and bought a new one which looked exactly the same as the busted one. The description says:
Pot 0-5K, Curtis Style for PB-5/6 Potentiometer * 3 Terminal Potentiometer for Curtis PB-5 or PB-6 type Pot Boxes * 0-5 k/ohm and 5-0 k/ohm These are the same 5k pots that are used in PB-5 and PB-6 0-5 K throttles. Now, when the mechanic installed it he said that he tested the old one vs the new and says that the resistance of the old one is 50 k while the new is only up to 5k and i should have gotten one that should reach 50k... Please tell me... does he know what he's talking about? Everywhere i research on the internet, it says that the potentiometer resistance should only be 0-5 k. |
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#10 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Snellville, Ga.
Posts: 1,289
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![]() Most pot boxes work either 0-5k or 5k-0. I've never heard of one to 50k. Is this a cart mechanic? Ask him direct questions. Could be just a failure to communicate.
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