Hyundai G2 Kaw ZX6

[JRL]

Originally Posted by HyperMotive Racing

The engine is an 07 zx10R with a factory Nissan SR20 turbo. Using a stock Yamaha rearend and swingarm mounted on a Columbia frame thats been double stretched. After having the rear apart this weekend to eliminate the govenor, the axles are going to snap in this thing They are at best 7/8" dia. I was planning to weld up the diff, but my mig nozzle was too big to get in there! Don't know what I'm going to do about that yet. The frame tubes are just tubes. When complete, there will be a tool box sitting there and sheetmetal covering all of that. but yes, it does look pretty tough with double DOM frame ends! Oh, and the fuel cell is out of either a jr. dragster or regular dragster i beleive.

Very cool looking! ZX10 is a powerhouse. With any boost at all you could see an easy 250 HP from that thing. Give it a shot too...!? Who's doing your ECM map? Wouldn't think the NA maps could keep up with the turbo? Used to see a few turbos installs, but these days, there's no room under the cowling for turbos on bikes. Suz Busa is a exception to that rule. I reckon a 'Busa or ZX14 would make a pretty decent drag cart too? Both are big motors with BIG HP and BIG torque.
You'll soon enough be going to an open sprocket design. I garuntee.
I've got to keep my cart looking looking like a something other than what it is. It's used in campgrounds at music festivals and often as not they've got electric only rules, but they're typically waived and gas carts are allowed during festivals.
Started loosely installing the wiring harness to get some idea where all the electrical crap needs to be located so that the harness is minimally cut up.
Freakin mess to look at now!
JR

[HyperMotive Racing]

Only planning on about 8 psi. thinking 220 hp or so should do it. There is a local Micro sprint company here that dynos all of our race cars. And since the wheel pattern is 4x4, the buggy will mount right up to their dyno! I am using an FMU to help with the fuel. I think the FMU and Power Commander should be enough to do the job since I don't plan to max the setup out. And being a tool buggy, there won't be alot of thrashing, should help a bit with the longevity of parts!

[JRL]

WELL now. Drove the cart a bit today. Only a couple of issues to mar the experience. The thermostat housing leaks because I "re-clocked" it so that the outlet exited downward, and it is keyed so that it cannot be reoriented. I did it anyway.
And the PO tried to install a Bosch style relay in place of the OEM Kaw fuel pump relay. I knew this and wasn't sure what they'ed done. But the pulse wire was not connected. The OEM pump relay won't close unless it sees at least cranking RPM on a coil. I figured that it was hot whenever the key was on. Wrong. Not a large issue at all. Wish that the OEM relay base hadn't been cut out...but. Hey, I only paid $300 for the complete ZX6E.
The clutch and transmission work fine. I guessed that second gear was out of it, but it works and stays in gear. The cart reverse works well.
The only major issue is that...as was advised, it's slow. Geared like a tractor. I got 6 speeds that probably won't make 45 MPH. Bummer. For now, it goes plenty fast enough. No seat yet. Un-fun ride without a seat. Happy to see it run and verify that all the systems work.
The Sahara 22X11/12 tires on the rear are good. Got plenty of ground clearance and the ride height is perfect on both ends...and relative to each other.
Here's a few pix for those unfortunates that own Hyundai carts!
JR

[rifter]

Nice looking work you've done there!

[JRL]

Thanks! The hard part is coming up. Painting the body. All the panels will bolt right back on, with exception of the seat. That's gonna have to be raised by about what the spark plug caps stick up above the valve cover.
Just sat here and blew off another $$ on ebay for an original Kaw fuel pump relay, which will stop pumping if the engine stops, set of oil cooler lines to cut up and play with, and a clutch pedal. The needs list is endless. Oh well...that's what one does with a "hobby."
JR

[rifter]

These builds will cost you small and large amounts at all the wrong times and you never know what's next. Oh **** I gotta have one of these,,,and one of those,,,why didn't I think of that when I was at the parts house yesterday. When your done and everybody that walks by has to stop and look, ask questions, and say "Man how'd you do that?" and you just smile and know to yourself what it takes to build and finish what many others tried and failed.

[JRL]

After a few months of dinking around, I've finally driven the cart for a couple of hours now. It ain't fast, but it's dangerous as it is. It is quick...but plan to change the CS sprocket to max out the area under the sprocket cover. I'm running 16T and I can probably go to 20 or 21T.
The cart is a little hard to stay in the saddle without the side rails and seat backs. It would be easy to slide right off the thing. It drives well, and runs great. Shift is notchy due to the very short throw on the shifter. I'm going to increase the shifter travel a little to make it easier to find neutral. Most Kaws have a "neutral finder", but someone has repaired the trans because it ain't in mine. 3 little balls in the output shaft 2nd gear...but it's a major bit of surgery to replace those balls. It ain't gonna happen. The trans shifts great, clutch is smooth, and the transaxle is quiet and smooth. Really easy to abuse this thing...sounds great too.
Apologies for the "Red-Neck" sitting on the cart...but that's sorta what I am. I gotta get my cup holder back on the cart too. Got to get the plastic back on the thing. The plastic is in good condition, but needs maybe a touch of Kawasaki Race Green. The radiator works great...rode around with a laser temp gun to verify that it wasn't overheating. Actually, the fan comes on a little early. May change out the fan thermo switch.
With about 5 lbs of air in the Sahara rear tires and the shocks on the softest setting the ride isn't bad. It'll carry people on the back without sagging...yet there's some "give" to to the rear. Don't want it too flexible.
Re-engineered the Kaw airbox so that it didn't add to the height of the engine. Had to cut away the plastic in the seat bottom and engine cover. Figured the seat would cook my a$$, but there's no obvious heat coming thru the seat. Not yet anyway. Might be when all the rear body plastic is back on.
Anyway...laugh your bums off!

‪Kaw ZX6E in Hyundai Golf Cart‬‏ - YouTube

‪Kaw ZX6E in Hyundai Golf Cart‬‏ - YouTube

BTW, the shifter is located between my legs just like the stick on my airplane. It's a good place to locate a shifter. Sounds different, but it works great. It would get into the passenger if located far enough to the right to clear my right leg. The scale of a golf cart makes situating some of the neccessary controls difficult.
JR

[rifter]

Video looks good, glad to see you have it almost complete. A bigger front sprocket will help with the very low geared axle. Now Brakes, seat belts, and a cage. You have the fast part down, now work on Safety.

[JRL]

Getting a little better driveability now with a 19T CS sprocket. That's 19/13 now with a 530 chain. Looks like a 20 might go in there. 20 must be custom cut. 19t was available as a stock item for something. Real common sprocket on multi brand engine...Honda, Suz, Kaw...in any event, it's plenty too fast for anything but pavement. Running around offroad it's good enough now. Get into 3rd and about 3K and it runs along in the 30 mph range. The engine has a 6 speed trans and 13K red line....100 MPH? Close enough. I've gotta get the GPS on it and get some idea how fast it's going. Feels different with the front plastic back on. Felt like a sprint car, albeit with a very tall seat...? Feels like my Rhino with the plastic back on. Adds to the noise too. Check out my little Warn headlights in the pics below. That worked out well.
Had a moment of impending doom when I put the wheels back on after adjusting the chain slack...damned wheels had a tight spot when rotated. Figured I'd already screwed up the transaxle and a bearing or something was failing. Not. The small amount that I moved the axle (slotted the axle mount holes) tightened up the rear brakes...cool. The cables are anchored to the swing arm, so moving the axle removed brake cable slack. That was an easy fix once sorted out. It was looking grim for a bit...while playing with the brakes noticed that the part brake wouldn't set...and it felt funky. Guessed that welding near the brake assembly might've screwed a brake cable or whatever. Nope...a short 8 mm bolt had fallen into the park brake mechanism and was preventing the park brake ratchet latching onto the bracket it locks onto. Very cool. Lots of little crap with easy resolutions!
The "redoo's" have already begun. Don't like the shifter at all. Sorry that I cut the hole for it. Have to cover that with a diamonette (sp?) plate. It's ugly. That's all. Works great. Just doesn't have the "look" for a fine Hyundai cart. I ordered a cheapo 15.5" chrome auto shifter from Summit Racing for $37 bucks, free ship. Spectre 6423 shifter. All I wanted is the lever. Looked for an old Hurst or similar shift lever on Epay...none for less than a hundred bucks. I'd like to find a little short chrome flat-stock shift lever for my clutch pedal. It works great, but it's ugly. A Harley factory brake pedal might just the item...they are all over Ebay for about nothing. My Delta wheels are ugly too, but installed chrome lugs and center caps...much better now.
Also getting the front plastic ready to paint. Any tips on how to prep this plastic crap would be helpful. I'm off in a short to see what might be posted on painting cart plastic. I'd guess that it's like an ABS auto bumper cover.
Got to pick a paint scheme. That's always a PITA. A race car motif should work. Or maybe Kawasaki Racing Green?
Really like to cut an Indy styled slot in the RH seat box for the oil cooler. Got some fittings to make up longer oil lines for the unit. Have to fab some sort of intake looking box...? Oh well. Lots to do...and got a lot done. Happy with the results so far. Probably need to start collecting parts to build a rear chain drive axle. Already started abusing the transaxle. Can't help it. The engine sounds like a race bike!
Suggestions and ideas appreciated! Thanks to those that have offered ideas that I scarfed up! Extra thanks to Hypermotive, Smallblock450 and Rifter!

[JRL]

Intalled the instrument pod that was removed from the Kaw. Spent a good bit of time figuring out what to do with it. Ended up mounting under the dash. Worked out well.
I keep tacking on additional bits about the Hyundai on this thread since it's an ongoing project? I suppose those interested in the overall conversion will find this works...those interested in specific points of interest such as the floor shifter will not.
Anyway. I bought an old Kaw 600 wiring harness off Epay. Cheap. Had all but one plug in excellent condition and all the wiring was good. This made for easy "stretching" of the OEM wiring harness while keeping factory guage and color codes intact. And, the plugs were used (with a little rearranging of the pins) so that everything is removeable. Only required one splce to make a nice finished product.
The instrument pod is nice and using gives a relatively finished, weatherproof assmebly. The only thing that doesn't work is the fuel guage. It probably can be made to work. I'm gonna pull the sender out and ohm it out. My fuel tank has a standard boat style 5 bolt fitment for a sender. Some motorcycles have oddball sender ohms...may be able to do a work-around.
Anyway...being semi-retired gives me lots of time to dink with this thing. I don't see how most people find the time to do these things. I'm slow, but got a lot time involved in this project. It isn't a real expensive toy, but it's constant petty things.
Few pix for those interested. I'm including a couple pix of the shifter I installed. That worked out really well.
JR