EZGo 48v stops after 20 seconds

[cgtech]

Great, on whose metric? What did they do to decide they were "great"? Did they put a load on them to determine how long they could carry a load? Golf carts require sustained loads for longer periods than a starting battery. Golf cart load testers measure how long a heavy load can be sustained for a hour or more, not "impulse tests" for 15 seconds. A "totally failed battery" will fail your test in short time, but, can you test for long run times with that test? I say NO, you can't!. The average "car battery tester" will totally call out the "bad ones" on a pallet of used cart batteries, but that's about all it's good for. There are so many other considerations to observe. Was that battery fully charged when you tested it?(that's big to me). I try to have the best "crappers" fully charged so if I need a "ok" battery. And the "solar guys" can get a good one.. We totally use our second rate batteries with the "off grid" guys, they don't need 400 amps available, so it works for them. They have a small field of cells, "perfect" is not what they want. "Just good" is good. Doesn't play "18 holes" will do.

[cgtech]

I think getting the last use out of them is best , less waste before they get recycled. And yes, they turn in their cores.

(We actually do get charged for every battery if we don't turn in a core, only thing EPA does besides eff things up)
Yep, I totally make even "core pallets" to avoid charges.

[Sdlink]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Great, on whose metric? What did they do to decide they were "great"? Did they put a load on them to determine how long they could carry a load? Golf carts require sustained loads for longer periods than a starting battery. Golf cart load testers measure how long a heavy load can be sustained for a hour or more, not "impulse tests" for 15 seconds. A "totally failed battery" will fail your test in short time, but, can you test for long run times with that test? I say NO, you can't!. The average "car battery tester" will totally call out the "bad ones" on a pallet of used cart batteries, but that's about all it's good for. There are so many other considerations to observe. Was that battery fully charged when you tested it?(that's big to me). I try to have the best "crappers" fully charged so if I need a "ok" battery. And the "solar guys" can get a good one.. We totally use our second rate batteries with the "off grid" guys, they don't need 400 amps available, so it works for them. They have a small field of cells, "perfect" is not what they want. "Just good" is good. Doesn't play "18 holes" will do.

Ok I understand what you are saying. They load tested each battery to determine if there were any bad cells which with the tests they ran they said they didn’t appear to have any bad cells. But I get that a 20 second load test could give a faulty conclusion here. My question is, based on what I’ve described do you think the only problem is the battery’s and/or cables? Buying new batteries isn’t a cheap fix so I’m wondering if there is anything else I can rule out and test before I do that?

[cgtech]

Check voltage at Controller B+ & B- terminals during the failure.

[jneubig]

Maybe I missed it, but what model is the cart? If it's an RXV, the burning smell could be the park brake. I know when mine went out, it was quite the burnt smell.

[kernal]

I think jnuebig may be on to something. In post #1 battery voltage reported as 13v implying a 48v cart with 12v batteries. This would likely be an RXV and not the assumed, I think, TXT.
Symptoms consistent with failing/failed motor brake I think.

[Sdlink]

Originally Posted by jneubig

Maybe I missed it, but what model is the cart? If it's an RXV, the burning smell could be the park brake. I know when mine went out, it was quite the burnt smell.

It is an RXV, 2011 48 volt model. Is there a way to test the parking brake because if so I’d like to?

[jneubig]

Originally Posted by Sdlink

It is an RXV, 2011 48 volt model. Is there a way to test the parking brake because if so I’d like to?

Yes. Using a multimeter, check the resistance on the brake coil. Should read between 25 and 28 ohms. My guess is the smell and not moving has already determined the fate, but you could check to be certain. Your 2011 has a Danaher controller. It is extremely important to buy an OEM EXGO replacement brake. Do not get anything aftermarket or heavy duty. It's really an easy swap and there are several threads on here with step by step instructions if you do a quick search.

[Sdlink]

Originally Posted by jneubig

Yes. Using a multimeter, check the resistance on the brake coil. Should read between 25 and 28 ohms. My guess is the smell and not moving has already determined the fate, but you could check to be certain. Your 2011 has a Danaher controller. It is extremely important to buy an OEM EXGO replacement brake. Do not get anything aftermarket or heavy duty. It's really an easy swap and there are several threads on here with step by step instructions if you do a quick search.

I’m not sure how to check the resistance on the brake coil. I did finally get the cart back home from the campground finally. I tested the bolts at the charge ports and was getting around 47 volts consistently while it ran. Like usual, it stopped after about 20 seconds and I could smell the hot smell. I felt the brake and it was hot to the touch. Is that enough to assume that is the issue?

I did put all new 4 gauge cables on the batteries and that didn’t make a difference.

[jneubig]

Originally Posted by Sdlink

I’m not sure how to check the resistance on the brake coil. I did finally get the cart back home from the campground finally. I tested the bolts at the charge ports and was getting around 47 volts consistently while it ran. Like usual, it stopped after about 20 seconds and I could smell the hot smell. I felt the brake and it was hot to the touch. Is that enough to assume that is the issue?

I did put all new 4 gauge cables on the batteries and that didn’t make a difference.

I would be inclined to say your motor brake is probably toast. When purchasing a new one, be absolutely certain to get an OEM genuine EZGO part. Do not buy heavy duty. Just the regular brake. Also, when installing be sure not to tighten the bolts too much. The torque is inch pounds. Cleaning the mounting surfaces very well with a wire brush is also very important. There are some step by step tutorials on here if you search. Each step is vitally important or you will be doing it again real soon. I’ve destroyed a brand new brake by tightening a bit too much.