Ezgo Driven clutch free spin?

[KCW357]

Spicyunicorn nailed it. Inside of driven clutch is smooth! Can that part be replaced? Not sure if it is worth rebuilding or buying a new one. I don’t plan on keeping this cart now that my wife and kids have the golf cart bus so quickest and least expensive fix so I can sell this wagon and get a 4 seater is the goal. Thanks everyone for helping out!

[KCW357]

Ok so I answered my own question about replacing the part. I hope! Looks like a new clutch cam and I’ll be good to go. My question now is I don’t see a snap ring hold it together. Every video and diagrams I find shows a snap ring. Do some not use snap rings?

[Spicyunicorn]

I had to replace entire clutch when mine went out

[kellett5261]

I am having a similar issue with my cart now, its been sitting for about a month and my drive clutch has been giving me issues for a little bit so i thought it was that, i just installed a brand new 780 comet clutch, same sh*t. i will say the new drive clutch is working flawlessly, cant wait to get it out.

as for the driven clutch, i can stick the cart in gear and spin it with my hand and the cart will half a$$ roll but i can stop it with my foot and the clutch will just keep spinning.

So next I wanted to drain the diff just to see if metal would start falling out or not from the new speed gears i just installed. NOTHING

finally i jacked up the driver side only on the axle and immediately the tire fell back towards the cart i was like wow, these hubs have maybe 15 hours of princess drive time on them.

so with that being said, where should i get OEM hubs from? are all TXT, ST Sport & Workhorse hubs the same? I typically just order them from shop.txtsv.com

IF there is a better alternative than factory parts i am all ears, i dont care about the cost just want my hole cart to be as reliable as possible.

thanks in advanced.

[crash12888]

Not saying that in the case of hubs that OEM is better than aftermarket because I've replaced many and bunches of them and the most important part of reassembly is cleaning axle and hub mating splines and axle nut torque.
If you get it torqued properly and the cotter doesn't align then move forward (tighter) to install cotter pin, not backward, even if it's closer.

[StoveBolt]

Originally Posted by kellett5261

so with that being said, where should i get OEM hubs from? are all TXT, ST Sport & Workhorse hubs the same? I typically just order them from shop.txtsv.com

IF there is a better alternative than factory parts i am all ears, i dont care about the cost just want my hole cart to be as reliable as possible.

thanks in advanced.

Never tried them but…

Ausco Heavy Duty Brake Drum/Hub
"Tired of stripping out your brake drums? Here's the solution. Try out this Heavy Duty Hub/Drum and consider your problem solved . Made of carbon steel"

https://www.amazon.com/Ausco-Heavy-D.../dp/B07K8TH88D

[kellett5261]

Originally Posted by kellett5261

I am having a similar issue with my cart now, its been sitting for about a month and my drive clutch has been giving me issues for a little bit so i thought it was that, i just installed a brand new 780 comet clutch, same sh*t. i will say the new drive clutch is working flawlessly, cant wait to get it out.

as for the driven clutch, i can stick the cart in gear and spin it with my hand and the cart will half a$$ roll but i can stop it with my foot and the clutch will just keep spinning.

So next I wanted to drain the diff just to see if metal would start falling out or not from the new speed gears i just installed. NOTHING

finally i jacked up the driver side only on the axle and immediately the tire fell back towards the cart i was like wow, these hubs have maybe 15 hours of princess drive time on them.

so with that being said, where should i get OEM hubs from? are all TXT, ST Sport & Workhorse hubs the same? I typically just order them from shop.txtsv.com

IF there is a better alternative than factory parts i am all ears, i dont care about the cost just want my hole cart to be as reliable as possible.

thanks in advanced.

Originally Posted by crash12888

Not saying that in the case of hubs that OEM is better than aftermarket because I've replaced many and bunches of them and the most important part of reassembly is cleaning axle and hub mating splines and axle nut torque.
If you get it torqued properly and the cotter doesn't align then move forward (tighter) to install cotter pin, not backward, even if it's closer.

what is the proper torque for the axle nut? i seems to me that the cotter pin broke and the nut backed off and stripped out the hub.

[kellett5261]

Originally Posted by StoveBolt

Never tried them but…

Ausco Heavy Duty Brake Drum/Hub
"Tired of stripping out your brake drums? Here's the solution. Try out this Heavy Duty Hub/Drum and consider your problem solved . Made of carbon steel"

https://www.amazon.com/Ausco-Heavy-D.../dp/B07K8TH88D

I ended up going with this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007R0J7JG...roduct_details

we'll se if it holds up longer than the last one.

[crash12888]

Originally Posted by kellett5261

what is the proper torque for the axle nut? i seems to me that the cotter pin broke and the nut backed off and stripped out the hub.

the manual reads 90- 140 FT PDS . Stating never back off the nut to fit the cotter pin.

[fchafey]

Originally Posted by kellett5261

I ended up going with this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007R0J7JG...roduct_details

we'll se if it holds up longer than the last one.

I bought two of those. Replace my left one as it was shot after 3.5 years of over 200 rounds of golf per year. When i torqued the left side nut I had to tighten a little more to align the pin. I decided to check the right side as i rotated tires and it was serviceable and tight.