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Old 10-24-2021, 09:17 PM   #1
nitro1
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Default Electric club car help

Hey guys looking for some tips on a electric club car year unknown but the seller said it ran fine till the forward and reverse switch got toasted, if there anyway I can bypass the f&r switch go make it move ?
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Old 10-25-2021, 06:34 AM   #2
Reddawg454
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Default Re: Electric club car help

I would think you could bolt a couple of cables together and get either forward or reverse with no way to switch direction.
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Old 10-25-2021, 06:51 AM   #3
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Default Re: Electric club car help

what is the serial number , that will tell what drive system it has
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Old 10-25-2021, 02:53 PM   #4
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Default Re: Electric club car help

Tag says A8717116401

I need new wires and forward and reverse switch, is there a heavy duty switch I can buy ? Sorry first electric cart
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Old 10-25-2021, 03:01 PM   #5
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Default Re: Electric club car help

Maybe a silly question but have you tried taking it apart and cleaning the contacts?

If it does need to be replaced, a contactor upgrade is about the same price as a HD FNR switch (or less if you DIY) and much more robust option

Either way unless itís completely melted, you should be able to clean the contacts and make the cart function for testing. Thereís really not much to them once you take it apart.
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Old 10-25-2021, 03:09 PM   #6
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Default Re: Electric club car help

Iíll look at it more tomorrow on the fire damage, btw anyone know the year of my cart so I can look into partsÖÖwill definitely need cables
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Old 10-25-2021, 05:16 PM   #7
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Default Re: Electric club car help

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro1 View Post
iíll look at it more tomorrow on the fire damage, btw anyone know the year of my cart so i can look into partsÖÖwill definitely need cables
1987
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Old 10-25-2021, 05:50 PM   #8
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Default Re: Electric club car help

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro1 View Post
Iíll look at it more tomorrow on the fire damage, btw anyone know the year of my cart so I can look into partsÖÖwill definitely need cables
Even with bad cables, a 1987 is a toaster cart. As long as thereís around 30v it should be enough for the solenoid to fire and make the rear wheels move on jackstands. Iíd still take the FNR apart, clean anything metal to make it shiny, and put it back together. Should be enough contact for a jackstand test to make sure everything works.

If thereís more damage and stuff isnít working still, Iíd say itís time to upgrade the entire drive system to a controller and 36v or 48v. You can easily spend several hundred dollars on FNR, solenoids, cables, and still find that thereís a bad motor or something. And ultimately thereís only so much you can do with a 36v resistor cart, it will never be particularly fast nor torquey. Upgrading the drive system will fix all of that.

Just my .02 but Iíd diagnose the cart as fully as possible before spending any money on it. The older carts especially, you could very easily and quickly exceed the value of the cart making it work.
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Old 10-25-2021, 07:24 PM   #9
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Default Re: Electric club car help

CP241 I would like to upgrade anyways so really donít want to buy anything as the cart sits, I like to go 48v system and find a complete kit for torque so I can build a somewhat of a hunting cart

Any idea on what to look into purchasing?? Nothing fancy just more torque than stock is fine
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:43 PM   #10
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Default Re: Electric club car help

Iím no expert, but Iíd say it really depends on your budget.

Scottyb and others have a complete conversion kit to change it to a solid state speed controller. Itís a predeveloped kit so installation would be pretty straight forward, But itís kinda pricey.

You could also DIY. You can convert the v-glide to work with an alltrax or other speed controller with a bit of rewiring. Basically youíd employ resistors on the output side of the v-glide and wire those into the throttle input for a speed controller. The resistor sizes/values are pretty easy to find on here. Then delete the coils, buy a controller and you can use the existing motor. This method financially would put you out a FNR switch (that you need anyway), controller, solenoid, and some wiring. But you could convert fairly cheaply to 48v with this method. Itís a lot more hands on, but saves a ton of $.
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