2001 Club Car DS Regen II Speed Controller Troubleshooting

[CMBC75]

A little background:

I replaced the speed controller last year. The new controller is FSIP SX motor controller-S1-FX302G020 48V 300A CC Regen 2. The original controller was a GE (silver) 48V 220A Ser.#-SH4D0256288P.
OBC is bypassed. Dynamic Breaking solenoid removed.
Cart ran fine for one season. starting this season, cart had intermittent solenoid activation(pedal pressed numerous times before activation). Sometimes the cart moved slightly even without the solenoid activated.

I'm certain the solenoid has failed:
48v present at coil(small posts) No 'Click' sound.
no continuity between large posts when 48V is applied to solenoid coil.

BUT, what I don't get is that there is 48V present on B+ wire coming from the speed controller when the wire is disconnected from the solenoid. Is this a sign that the controller is bad?
20160626_164459.jpg
(could not get the pic to upload right side up)
Here are some voltage measurements. Cart in RUN. Key ON. FNR in Forward.
Controller Pins:
#1 red wire=48V
#2 Orange White wire=48V
#4 White wire=48V
#3 Green/White=48V(pedal press)
#7 yellow/black=3.8-0V (peddle press)

48V present across solenoid coil terminals when cart is switched to RUN.

[CMBC75]

I replaced the solenoid and the cart is back to running condition.

[joesam]

Thanks for the update - I've noticed sometimes just after a weekend some questions get lost. No doubt when you read your own comment

no continuity between large posts when 48V is applied to solenoid coil.

you knew....

[CMBC75]

Originally Posted by joesam

Thanks for the update - I've noticed sometimes just after a weekend some questions get lost. No doubt when you read your own comment you knew....

Yes. I knew the solenoid was bad. It was the presence of 48 volts on the B+(heavy gauge yellow) wire coming from the speed controller when the solenoid was not activated that concerned me. When looking at the wiring diagram, the only other possible way for pack voltage to reach the controller is the red/white wire that is connected on the same post as the battery pack + at the solenoid. It travels to the TOW/RUN switch. From the TOW/RUN switch, there are two paths that the battery pack voltage can make it's way to the speed controller; via green wire to key switch then blue to V glide then purple to controller or via white wire to OBC then yellow or green to controller(not sure what color is pack +). From the pack + to the B+ of the controller there was a 1.2 voltage drop. Meaning the battery pack voltage was 50 volts. The B+ controller terminal(heavy yellow wire) was 48.8 volts. I don't have a wiring diagram of the speed controller to better understand how 48volts reaches the B+ terminal. I just thought it was strange to see voltage at controller B+ terminal without solenoid activation.

[joesam]

Just flat-a** guessing (Sergio is the real diagram & paths guru) but it may have something to do with the "Dynamic Braking" function via the controller putting that voltage there (even though you said the coil/solenoid was bypassed).

[Sergio]

The Regen II controller did not use a pre-charge resistor, instead it used Pin #1 (red wire) on the controller 23-pin connector to keep the capacitors charged.

That pin gets its power from the OBC Blue wire.

That is why we recommend when by-passing the OBC on the Regen II to jump White to Blue wires and not the Red to Blue as the White wire power is controlled by the Tow/Run switch and the Red wire is always hot.


Regen II diagram:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...s_-regen2-.jpg

[CMBC75]

Thank you for the info and explaination Sergio!