2004 EZGO 36v TXT Series - Intermittent Stop and Go

[LicEngr]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

With pack voltage between B- and M- after solenoid click, the solenoid is very likely to be good.

OK.

Are you getting the 4-blinks and solid green while cart is misbehaving?

Yes, 4 green blinks and solid green even when cart is misbehaving.

[yurtle]

JohnnyB's posts and mine had same timestamps. I'd trust his as far as B- M- readings.

Do you get correct voltage readings on white and black ITS pins 2 and 3 on controller, when it's behaving and misbehaving?

[LicEngr]

Throttle testing was performed when the cart was misbehaving.

No error codes thrown by AXE when cart misbehaves.

Originally Posted by yurtle

Intermittent problems are often the hardest to troubleshoot.

Just thought about one more thing that can cause a no go. The red power wire to the controller could be bad. It goes from the solenoid to controller pin 1.

Good call. I will check that, thanks.

[LicEngr]

Originally Posted by yurtle

JohnnyB's posts and mine had same timestamps. I'd trust his as far as B- M- readings.

OK.

Do you get correct voltage readings on white and black ITS pins 2 and 3 on controller, when it's behaving and misbehaving?

Yes, Pin #2 and Pin #3 at controller, 8.8v at solenoid click, 5.4v with pedal to floor when cart is misbehaving or working normally.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by LicEngr

Throttle testing was performed when the cart was misbehaving.

No error codes thrown by AXE when cart misbehaves.



Good call. I will check that, thanks.

No need, based on your statement that you performed an ITS voltage test while misbehaving. No power to controller, no LED codes nor ITS voltage, so I think you're done.

Sorry.

You'll like the SR, I do.

[JohnnieB]

I agree, everything points to the controller being bad, you'll love the SR.

FWIW: Voltage on the red wire (Pin-1) powers up the AXE, so if you get 4 green blinks then steady green while cart is misbehaving, the red wire is good.

Of course, some owners have re-routed the control wiring so controller turns on before solenoid clicks. If I had a series drive, I know I would.

I don't believe turning the controller on and off every time the pedal switch contacts close or open is good for its lifespan since most electronic gadgets fail during the power up process. I'd most likely rig it to power up the controller when the key was turned on, or at least when key was on and a direction selected.

[LicEngr]

Thanks JohnnieB and yurtle. Learned a lot from you guys over the years.

Yeah I kind of thought a new controller was on the horizon. Looking at the SR48500; maybe Scotty is running a Fathers Day Sale!

I will also look at possibly re-routing the control wiring to activate the controller before the solenoid; had not thought of that.

I have 6 - US2200XC (July 20eighteen) batteries - what do you all think about adding 2 more 6v to these 11 mo. old batteries for 48v?

[JohnnieB]

You'll have to consider the two new US 2200XC batteries as sacrificial items, meaning the when the six existing batteries are due to be replaced, so will the two new ones. Basically, the new ones will age rapidly to the same age as the existing ones.

In a nutshell, the 48V pack will be imbalanced, which will be detrimental to both the existing and new batteries, but you'll have 48V performance now instead of waiting until the 36V pack needs to be replaced.

The existing 200A solenoid probably won't run on 48V, so replace it with a MZJ400-48V or some 200A plus solenoid that will.

You'll also need a 48V charger, The Lester Summit-II is a good choice.

You can try to better balance the 48V pack by giving the 6 existing batteries some extra charge time by doing them in pairs with a 12V charger.

Here is a SoC chart for US Battery brand batteries.

[yurtle]

When rewiring your controller to be powered up with key switch, look at an idea Sergio (I think?) mentioned, which is to change the sequence of the switches MS2 and KSI, which means KSI always has power when reed switch is satisfied, and it doesn't drop out when changing directions. Then you could power the controller from the KSI. I may sketch that up. This is in another post somewhere. With help of the OP, it turned out to be incredibly simple.

[yurtle]

Here's a quicky drawing showing controller powered with key switch.

NOTE:

Pin numbers are different on Alltrax controller. Pin 4 is NOT power on Alltrax AXEs, and maybe others?

SR is interestingly, labeled KSI.