Need advice on wiring converter 48V input to run/tow switch

[InvalidUsername]

I'm wondering if the small tray I removed from underneath the golf ball tray has something to do with the key switch giving such high readings. Each depression in the golf ball tray has a hole, about 1/16" dia. The only thing I can think those are for is to drain water. But that doesn't make much sense because water would drain right into the instrument panel wiring. So I wondered when I took off the tray mounted underneath (because it kept the panel from fitting correctly) if it was put there to channel water away from the panel wiring. I don't know if it is a stock item, but it's obviously a CC part. Maybe water got into the switch and corroded it. I'll post a picture of the thing I removed if no one knows what I'm talking about

[InvalidUsername]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

Unsure, I would imagine it would have to do with loads being switched on and off and how many cycles the key made. If the switch was cycling larger loads like a 4 wire reducer I would say not surprising that it has occurred.

No reducer in the cart.

[InvalidUsername]

Originally Posted by InvalidUsername

I'm wondering if the small tray I removed from underneath the golf ball tray has something to do with the key switch giving such high readings. Each depression in the golf ball tray has a hole, about 1/16" dia. The only thing I can think those are for is to drain water. But that doesn't make much sense because water would drain right into the instrument panel wiring. So I wondered when I took off the tray mounted underneath (because it kept the panel from fitting correctly) if it was put there to channel water away from the panel wiring. I don't know if it is a stock item, but it's obviously a CC part. Maybe water got into the switch and corroded it. I'll post a picture of the thing I removed if no one knows what I'm talking about

Here are pictures. Looks to me like it is meant to drain off water

@!.jpg@#.jpg

[InvalidUsername]

Since the Key switch was shot I opened it up to see what the problem is. No corrosion. There's an o-ring to keep water out. There's a lot of grease inside. Everything looked good and tested good. The way these work is the terminals terminate on the inside with what looks like a copper BB. A copper plate with ridges and valleys presses up against them. When the key is turned the plate rotates and the BBs contact ridges on the copper plate and juice flows.

Apparently with mine there wasn't enough pressure forcing the plate against the BBs, so they were barely touching the plate. Thus the high ohms and erratic readings. I finally figured out I could push the key in and make the thing work. 0.1 ohms. So it was a mechanical problem. Unfortunately I can't get it to work consistently, so I'll just get a new one.

What happens if you turn off the key switch while running?