93 DS no go Fwd/Rev

[kimrpaige]

I assume M- and B- are contacts on controller. That may be to much for my friend to handle. Will check it out when I get out of work. Thanks so much. Kim

[kimrpaige]

My friend just charged all batteries 2 at a time with 12v charger, now pack reads 39.2 still no movement and still clicking. I see two top horizontal lugs are B+ and B- so other vertical lugs must be M- and M+. I again assume B side is input side and M side is output to motor, hense M? Again will check later today. Kim

[Sergio]

Not quite, B+ and B- are the same as the battery pack.

The other two are M- and A2.

A2 is optional in some controllers as it is only used for plug brake, but if it exists, it is imperative that A2 goes to motor A2 and M- goes to motor A1.

The output to the motor is B+ and M-.

M- is initially (pedal up) at +36v and it goes down to 0v at pedal down.

If You measure M- in relation to B-, You will get the voltage range Scottyb told You (36v to 0v).

The controller does a PWM (pulse width modulation), so what changes is the duty cycle of the output signal (the frequency is around 16kHz or higher).

At 50% throttle, the controller sends a voltage that is 50% of the time at +36v and 50% of the time at 0v, the motor (and your voltmeter) sees the average voltage or +18v.

Edit: here is a good wiring diagram where you can acctually read the markings on the controller terminals.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...ire_vglide.jpg

[kimrpaige]

Thanks Sergio,
Shortly after my last post I googled Curtis 1204 controller and got more info than I will ever need, LOL but yes I see the bottom lugs are M- and A2. Thanks so much. I will go over and take the measurements between B- and M-. So this is pointing to either the motor/brushes or controller, right? Kim

[Sergio]

It depends on what you get out of that test.

If you get the correct voltage range, I would check the FNR switch to make sure it is not melted internally and also all high current cables and connectors are good and not corroded.

If You are not getting the correct voltage range on the test, read on...

The 93 DS 36v has a 2 wire Vglide setup as a 0-5kΩ rheostat.

When you put the cart in reverse, another resistor gets added in parallel to the Vglide so that the resistance changes to approximately 0-2.6kΩ

You can measure that resistance range if you disconnect the black and the white wires from terminals #2 and #3 on the controller and measure the resistance with the probes connected to the disconnected wires as you press the pedal slowly all the way down..

Also, when the pedal micro switch closes, +36v is sent to the solenoid as wells as to terminal #1 on the controller.

Make sure that you are getting +36v at the controller #1 terminal when the pedal is pressed.

You may also want to remove the pre-charge resistor from the solenoid and make sure the solenoid gets +36v on the controller side when you hear it engaging as the solenoid contacts can be burned.

[tag50]

While you're poking around with the meter tonight,
1) see if there is a diode across the 2 small studs of the solenoid
2) that it's oriented right (band to the pos. side)
3) that it's functional (has bias)

The solenoid doesn't care if the diode is working or not, but some controllers do care.


.

[kimrpaige]

OK, Got it figured out Thanks so much, especially Sergio!! You guys rock!! Voltage between M- and B- with pedal down was zero all the time. I removed the pre-charge resistor from one side to isolate it, solenoid clicked but no voltage on output side of N/O contacts, so with resistor in place voltage was present at B+ lug of controller. So N/O contacts of solenoid are bad. Thanks so much everyone!!!! Sergio, You Rock!! Also, Diode is installed correctly on small terminals of solenoid. Ordered new solenoid, owners are very happy!! Kim

[kimrpaige]

BTW, if the resistor was not there for pre-charge, it would have been much easier to troubleshoot!! I guess we all need challenges in life, no matter how old we get! Thanks again everyone!! Kim