How to get my stock cart up a hill

[jdunmyer]

ddstirz said:

Still nothing. What should i do now.

Here's a very important general troubleshooting tip for this sort of situation:

Always look at the last thing you did before anything else. Likely as not, you caused the problem.

Don't ask me how I know this.

It does sound like you're getting closer. BTW: your batteries really shouldn't be run down so low. Look up one of the SOC charts on this site. I printed one out, laminated it, and keep it in my pocket. That's in addition to one taped to the dash next to ScottyB's digital meter.

[ddstiriz]

Alright so i hooked up my buzzer that i had unhooked it will not sound when in reverse u til after the second selinoid clicks. Im anout to push this **** thing down to the boat launch

[mrgolf]

Originally Posted by ddstiriz

Alright so i hooked up my buzzer that i had unhooked it will not sound when in reverse u til after the second selinoid clicks. Im anout to push this **** thing down to the boat launch

Are we having fun yet.

Just hang in there these guys have helped people get carts going that I though there was no hope for. It just takes time.

[scottyb]

How a 5 solenoid Club Car works:

This is a simple yet somewhat overly complicated drive system. You need to get the big picture before you can do more than frustrate yourself sorting it out.

It has 5 solenoids and there is a micro switch to trigger each one in the small box at the end of the gas pedal. The mechanical throttle slide triggers each micro switch (ms) in sequential order.

ms #1 triggers the master solenoid closest the driver side. The master solenoid connects power to all the other solenoids. it does not move the cart.

ms#2 moves the cart at it's lowest speed by passing power to the motor through the resistor coil with the max resistance.

Push the pedal more and ms#3 triggers the next solenoid in line allowing power to the motor to flow through a coil of less resistance = more amperage gets to the motor and it spins faster.

ms #4 allows current to go through a less restrictive coil resulting in more power going to the motor and more speed is produced.

ms#5 allows current to flow direct to the motor without the use of a resistor coil. This direct connection produces the max power and speed.

Additionally you need to understand these solenoids are 36v continuous duty golf cart specific! No automotive substitutes will work for long.

Each solenoid has 2 small posts for activation. It takes a + and - at the small posts to trigger the solenoid to close contact between the large posts. Read that again.

The + side of the solenoid activation feed is daisy chained together... all solenoids share a common source or wire from the F&R ms by way of the key switch. Like this battery B+ > keyswitch > F&R ms > all solenoids.

The - side of the circuit comes from the 5 ms in the little silver box at the end of the gas pedal linkage which is activated sequentially by the slide discussed above.

Go here for wiring diagram > http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...e528185if2.jpg

I hope this helps
Somebody sticky this ?

[ddstiriz]

Thanks scotty. I replaced the mast selinoid. And all 5 micro switchs, i had to adjust the linkage so all the micro switches would make contact. At the small terminals i got 36 volts of every selinoid while pushing the pedal. However i dont seem to get 36 at the selinoids bi terminals. It seems odd that the reverse buzzer isbt buzzing until i hit the second or third speed

[ddstiriz]

Thanks scotty. I replaced the mast selinoid. And all 5 micro switchs, i had to adjust the linkage so all the micro switches would make contact. At the small terminals i got 36 volts of every selinoid while pushing the pedal. However i dont seem to get 36 at the selinoids bi terminals. It seems odd that the reverse buzzer isbt buzzing until i hit the second or third speed

[Sergio]

Sorry Scottyb, but that is not quite the way it works on a club car and the differences are important when troubleshooting.

I edited your original post:

ms #1 triggers the master solenoid closest the driver side. The master solenoid connects the motor to the buss-bar, but no voltage exists at the buss-bar at this time so the cart does not move.

ms #2 triggers the next solenoid closest to the master, the cart moves at it's lowest speed since power passes through ALL of the the resistor coils before reaching the buss-bar (max resistance).

Push the pedal more and ms #3 triggers the next solenoid in line allowing power to reach the buss-bar through one less resistor coil. Less resistance = more amperage gets to the motor and it spins faster.

ms #4 allows current to go through two less resistor coils resulting in more power going to the motor and more speed is produced.

ms #5 allows current to flow directly from the FNR to the buss-bar to the motor without the use of any a resistor coils. This direct connection produces the max power and speed.

Additionally you need to understand these solenoids are 36v continuous duty golf cart specific! No automotive substitutes will work for long.

Each solenoid has 2 small posts for activation. It takes a + and - at the small posts to trigger the solenoid to close contact between the large posts. Read that again.

The - (negative) side of the solenoids activation feed is daisy chained together... all solenoids share a common source or wire from the F&R ms by way of the key switch (negative).

Like this battery B- > keyswitch > F&R ms > all solenoids.

The + side of the circuit comes from the 5 ms in the little silver box at the end of the gas pedal linkage which is activated sequentially by the slide discussed above.

The reverse buzzer is always connected to the +36v side, when the FNR is on reverse, the other side of the reverse buzzer is connected to B- by the way of the Motor Stator coil.

[Sergio]

ddstiriz, what you describe with the reverse buzzer cannot happen unless your cart is not wired according to the OEM wiring.

High resolution wiring diagram for your cart


Double check the wiring on the FNR according to the picture below.

The white cable #5 on the diagram below goes to the solenoid on the passenger side.

FNR wiring Labels

[ddstiriz]

So is it possible that my foward and reverse switch is bad? Would things still click? My buzzer still only sounds after i hit the second ms.