Smoking and smelling F/R switch

[krugerand777]

So that sounds like new HD FnR switch and all new cables? Will everything be matched up correctly then?

Does this have anything to do with the charger not shutting off even though it is near the 0 mark?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by krugerand777

So that sounds like new HD FnR switch and all new cables? Will everything be matched up correctly then?

Does this have anything to do with the charger not shutting off even though it is near the 0 mark?

Yes, and don't forget the solenoid, all current used goes through the Solenoid.

Charger not shutting off may indicate a battery problem. Have you got a handheld digital voltmeter you can check the pack with?

The charger cut off voltage is between 44 and 46.5 volts
Fully charged & settled (12hrs rest) the pack should read 38.4
Attach the meter to the pack and step on the gas, preferably with the cart headed up hill... what does the voltage start at and what does it drop to?

[krugerand777]

I will go get one and report back. Thank you.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by krugerand777

I will go get one and report back. Thank you.

Get 200 amps or better.

[ab46501]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Pic #1 shows a control marked for stock motors only and sometime last night you posted a pic of an EMP 2 spd motor. The F&R looks stock, the solenoid looks stock, the cables look stock.

I think the motor is drawing more amperage than the system can deliver without heat issues.

That EMP motor is not the 2 spd version but it is just an upgraded motor designed to run 16-18 mph on stock tires.

But scottyb is correct......Emp motors like between 300-400 amps and 4 ga cables. I would upgrade the FNR and solenoid too. Hopefully that will solve your heat issues.

[krugerand777]

So I went and got a multimeter and watched some tutorials. I tested the batteries individually and they were all around 6.7. I unplugged the charger and tested the entire pack and it measured 42.5. With the charger on, it was 45. The charger still does not shut off so maybe there is a relay switch broken in there or something. Scotty, how do I test the voltage going uphill and drive the cart at the same time. I just have the probes multimeter?

As far as the FnR switch smoke and smell. I went for a very short ride going very slowly trying to test it out. The 3 wires/bolts from the motor attached to the FnR switch still get very very hot. Looking at the wiring, there is 2 gauge wire between the batteries and 6 gauge from the 1st and 6th battery going into the controller and solenoid. Also the wires from the motor to the FnR switch are 6 gauge also. I bought some pvc tubing as per one suggestion to insulate the 6 gauge wire but wonder if that is a futile task. What would be my shopping cart list to fix this up the right way? Unfortunately I went over budget on this cart b/c I thought it was 100%. Any advice and suggestions on how to do this economically as possible is really appreciated. Thanks!

[krugerand777]

Hi ab46501,

Thanks for your reply on the motor. The cart is lifted with the 22 inch tires. Do you know what size that Alltrax controller is? I looked everywhere for some serial numbers or model number other than NPX but could not find one.

What I am most afraid of is that I sink more money into this for the new FnR switch, cables and solenoid and still have a heating problem b/c everything does not match up right and then need new motor, new controller etc. etc.

Any other words of wisdom or recommendations for me?

[scottyb]

Those are valid fears... I don't want to bash your seller so much as warn people who are buying that unless you know about golf carts or are buying from a reputable source, you can get something that needs work.

SO everything in this drive system needs to be geared toward running the aftermarket EMP motor. Since it designed to work with stock tires only I will venture it will work with a stock (275) or NPX 3- 400 amp controller. All high amperage cabling should be 4g to insure delivery without resistance. The F&R should be HD and the solenoid should be 200a continuous.

I'm afraid it sounds like you have a battery problem too. You might want to consider calling the seller and asking him about the battery readings you are getting.

PS...tape or clamp the leads to the pack, place the meter on the seat and drive.

[krugerand777]

I am contacting the seller again, I am afraid that he is just a dishonest guy and probably will not respond anymore. I asked him if everything was working correctly and he said yes and he also said they were new batteries. He tells me he had no problems and the FnR switch never smelled or smoked....Liar. I know buyer beware but I just don't know how you can sleep at night being such a scumbag. Sorry about the rant.

Few more questions please:
Do you think my battery problem is contributing to the overheating switch?
Do I have to buy new batteries now or can it wait awhile?
If I can find some stock (small) tires back on for awhile would that be one solution to the overheating?
How do I tell what size my Alltrax controller is? My Solenoid size?
I assume the 2 gauge wires are ok so I would just need to replace the 6 gauge to 4 gauge or higher(2 gauge) correct?

Thanks for eveyone's advice and help, I certainly am getting baptized by fire into this.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by krugerand777

.....................
1. Do you think my battery problem is contributing to the overheating switch?
2. Do I have to buy new batteries now or can it wait awhile?
3. If I can find some stock (small) tires back on for awhile would that be one solution to the overheating?
4. How do I tell what size my Alltrax controller is? My Solenoid size?
5. I assume the 2 gauge wires are ok so I would just need to replace the 6 gauge to 4 gauge or higher(2 gauge) correct?

Thanks for eveyone's advice and help, I certainly am getting baptized by fire into this.

1. Overheating is a sign of bad cables, connections or contacts.
If the batteries were bad, the symptoms would be the opposite of overheating issues.

2. You may or may not have battery and/or charger problems. Need to do some testing to find out for sure.
What charger do you have? (Picture of faceplate will suffice)
What batteries do you have? If they are Trojan Batteries, there should be a Letter and Number (date code) stamped into Negative terminal.

3. It might help, but the problem will still exist. If the cables and/or F/R switch is getting hot, they have resistance in them and there shouldn't be any resistance in them.

4. The controller and solenoid are big enough to overheat some cables and the F/R, so their size isn't an immediate issue.
If they were too small, they would be burning up, rather the the cables and F/R.

5. The 2Ga cables may or may not be okay. Have to check fro any voltage drop across them under load to be sure.
Personally. I would replace all 13 high current cables with new cable, 4Ga or heavier.

---------------

Earlier, you asked how to attach your DVM test leads so you could measure voltage while driving.
Something like this works: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062227
Or this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...LA&cagpspn=pla

Personally, I soldered four alligator clips with color coded insulating covers on several feet of 18/2 lamp cord and attach the clips on one end of it to whatever I want to measure, run it out under the seat so I don't damage my meter leads and then attach my meter to the other end.