1996 DCS no solenoid click

[birdleg1981]

i have a 1996 ezgo DCS that was dropped off for me to look at. the cart has the fwd/rev lever by between your legs and tow/run switch. complaint is it wont do anything upon pedal being depressed. i let it charge all night, got off work and decided to look at it. cart sat off charger for about 12 hrs give or take. pack voltage is 39.82 volts. here is what i did. i checked pin 5 and it is hot when pedal is depressed. pin 6,9,10 hot always with pack voltage. now pin 7 is hot always, but has 28.29 volts before pedal depressed, while depressed it goes down to 27.49 volts. my question is does this sound like a bad controller? thats what im thinking, but dont wanna jump ahead of myself being newer to working on carts.. thanks for any advice. woopigsooie. Bird

[JohnnieB]

Just to be sure, I want to verify that you are getting full battery pack voltage (39.82V) on Pins 5, 6, 9 & 10 when pedal is pushed.
If not full battery pack voltage on all of them, find & fix the missing voltage.

If you are getting it, measure the voltage on the small solenoid terminal that has blue wire going to Pin-7 attached to it.
If you have full battery pack voltage, or at least closer to it than what you measure at Pin-7 on the controller, fix the blue wire.

If it is the same as you measure at Pin-7, it could be a bad solenoid or a bad controller.

To determine if solenoid is good or bad, disconnect the blue wire going to the controller and connect a jumper wire from the now empty small terminal directly to the main negative post of battery pack.
When pedal is pushed, the solenoid should click.
If it clicks, the controller is bad.

Be careful, the cart might take off and run over someone or something when you push pedal. It's best to raise rear wheels off floor.

Also, be sure to put Run/Tow switch in Tow position when connecting or disconnecting anything electrical is a DCS (or PDS) cart.

[birdleg1981]

ok johnnie B, i tested the blue wire and its not consistant coming out the controller. sometimes 15 volts, place in tow mode then switch back to run and then it may be at 27 volts. all the voltages are at small terminal on solenoid as well, so the wire is damaged im assuming. ok also when i unhooked the lil blue wire from solenoid terminal then jump the lil terminal to M- the solenoid automatically clicks without depressing the go pedal. when i press go pedal still nothing happens. any help is appreciated..

[cheapjeep2]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...eshooting.html

Go here... http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...eshooting.html At the bottom of the first post is a document called dcs.pdf

Print this in COLOR, use your volt meter and start on page one, and everywhere it is red check voltage... You'll be able to determine your fault finding this. If you don't have voltage, trace the red path and check each component, if everything checks out, with that, then you can raise the rear wheels off the concrete and jump the big power wires across the solenoid. If it runs, solenoid is bad, if not then it is most like a controller.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by birdleg1981

ok johnnie B,
1. i tested the blue wire and its not consistant coming out the controller. sometimes 15 volts, place in tow mode then switch back to run and then it may be at 27 volts.
2. all the voltages are at small terminal on solenoid as well, so the wire is damaged im assuming.
3. ok also when i unhooked the lil blue wire from solenoid terminal then jump the lil terminal to M- the solenoid automatically clicks without depressing the go pedal.
4. when i press go pedal still nothing happens. any help is appreciated..

1. & 2. While the solenoid is connected normally, if you are getting the same voltage (whatever the voltage is) at pin-7 on the controller and on the solenoid terminal with blue wire attached, the blue wire is okay.

3. The M- scares me.
I said connect it to main negative post on battery pack. That would be B-.
Hopefully you didn't jumper anything to M-, which is the output terminal on the controller.

If small terminal is connected to B-, the solenoid will close when Run/tow is in RUN, Keyswitch is on and F/R switch is in either F or R.
It should denergized when key is turned off, or when F/R if in Neutral, or when Run/Tow switch in in Tow.

4. If the motor doesn't turn or at least try to turn, when the solenoid is closed and the pedal is pushed, either the controller is bad, or the ITS is telling the controller to pass amps to the motor.

[birdleg]

johnnie B, i mistakenly said M- , i used the main negative on battery pack. i think thats where i got the M- from. Sry bout that. i will test the its coil and see, but im leaning twds controller is toast. the solenoid does de-energize when key is switched to off or placed in neutral. also thanks jeep for the diagram. will come in handy for sure.

[birdleg1981]

new controller in and now purrs like a kitty.. thanks for the help folks.

[JohnnieB]

Glad to hear you got it purring.
Thanks for the feedback about what fixed the problem.