Voltage Reducer

[83clubcar]

Originally Posted by meimk

From what I'm seeing the red lead is on the POS post of the forward left battery (under the driver) the blue I'm seeing looks like it's on the POS post of the forward right battery. It would have to be on the NEG post to be running the full pack through those connections. I'm betting the forward right battery is the only one supplying the 12 volt power, terminating the negative side of the circuit on the other end of that pack main ground. I seem to recall something like that on a couple of other earlier Precidents. A simple test will tell that tale. Disconnect the NEG cable from the right side rearward battery and see if you still have 12 volts to your accessories. Of course remember to flip your tow / run switch to tow first.

I am certainly not trying to be argumentative but I have a basic understanding of how electricity works and if the circuit is not terminated on the same battery how will it drain only that one. I just looked around at everything in the center part of the battery pack and cannot seem to understand how only one battery is being used. Would this mean that clubcar made the 12 volt lights run on just the first battery or did they pull it off a reducer? Someone has to know the answe4r here.

[meimk]

The pack POS is the inside terminal of the left side forward battery. Pack NEG is the inside terminal of the right side forward battery. So no matter if it's at the battery terminal end or the controller NEG end of that cable it functions the same from that point (either end of the same cable) to the POS terminal of that same battery is 12 volts. As I said you can always try disconnecting the right side rear battery, disabling the full pack, and see if you still have 12 volts to your accessories. No guess work needed. I have personally worked on other Precedents that WERE wired for lights that way. The blue wire off of the right forward battery supplied the POS side of the 12 volt circuit - run through the channel in the floor to the relay & switch panel in the dash. The cart was almost certainly originally sold without lights, so what ever it's got was added on.

[Golferdave]

Most lights, horns, radios are after factory add ons.
Some sent to a detail shops to do the add ons
some are made street legal, & have a road legal sticker, ID & bar code
The shop grab the easiest fastest 12v supply. Off of one 12v batt, off 2 6 volt batts.
Have seen LED lights run off of one 8 volt.
Most of These shops sell/install batteries too, so if the sell more batts .........>>><<<<.

I don't know of any with factory 48/12V reducers. All I've seen are after market.
Be nice if they work at least put a pig-tail in the wiring harness for key power to plug in a reducer

IMO
the "Right way" is to use a reducer across all the batts to 12 v
But few carts in my area are wired that way, just faster, cheaper & easier to grap 12V off one batt to a light switch & hook up lights.

[Kashmir]

Club car does make a 48-12 reducer that is plug and play in the Precedent.
Just plugs into the 12 pin connector behind the dash.
Part number 102553102
Get with Tahoedawg and he can hook you up.

[Golf cart guy]

Originally Posted by Kashmir

Club car does make a 48-12 reducer that is plug and play in the Precedent.
Just plugs into the 12 pin connector behind the dash.
Part number 102553102
Get with Tahoedawg and he can hook you up.

I agree, this is the best way to go if you have a precedent

[83clubcar]

Yeah but I am not spending $500 for the reducer. I think I'll risk the battery life. Thanks for all the feedback.

[Sergio]

I have never seen a reducer for that price...

The part number given is for a "plug and play" harness adapter.

You can just cut the wires on the 12-pin connector harness on a Precedent and tap the wires You need.

Look at the diagram below on the bottom right for the wires that need to be cut to add a voltage reducer.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...ont_wiring.jpg

[83clubcar]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I have never seen a reducer for that price...

The part number given is for a "plug and play" harness adapter.

You can just cut the wires on the 12-pin connector harness on a Precedent and tap the wires You need.

Look at the diagram below on the bottom right for the wires that need to be cut to add a voltage reducer.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...ont_wiring.jpg

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...FQoKaQod22QKYQ

Will that work?

[Sergio]

I don't have any experience with that converter, but in general, the lower amp units (less than 20 amps) are more likely to have inefficient electronics.

If the choice is between that one and no converter, I would try that one first.

You should check some of the site sponsors as they sell reliable models that a lot of members use.

[Golferdave]

Originally Posted by 83clubcar

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...FQoKaQod22QKYQ

Will that work?

I got the cheap 10A version of that model, to meet the subdivision lights rule.

running maybe 2 amps of led lights & a power plug for charging phone/gps....
Has worked a year. 48 volts source is off the key Sw.
(10 amp rating on the 12V side)

of those 2 choices, 20amp model probably the better one

Think all Volt-reducers draw a little 48 volt power all the time even if the accessories are turned off unless the 48 volts side is switched off . (but that would reset your clock)
Remember to unhook/switch off the 48 v side for long term storage