low voltage

[sonnysmith]

Guys I have a 1996 dcs that will not run. With all the standard test the only thing not right is the blue wire to the solenoid. It only has 25.9 volts. all other check show 36 volts. Charts tell the to check components (wiring) not sure what to look for, other than harness wiring. Suggestion?

Thanks
Sonny

[radioman]

Does the solenoid click when you try to go?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

Guys I have a 1996 dcs that will not run. With all the standard test the only thing not right is the blue wire to the solenoid. It only has 25.9 volts. all other check show 36 volts. Charts tell the to check components (wiring) not sure what to look for, other than harness wiring. Suggestion?

Thanks
Sonny

The controller "Grounds" (Connects B-) the solenoid when the pedal switch closes. (Solenoid activation circuit highlighted on attached schematic.)

B+ gets to one of the solenoid's coil terminals via the Reed switch, Run/Tow switch, F/R switch and Key switch, so you should get full pack voltage on the terminal with the White/yellow and red wires attached when all those switches are closed.

If you do, you will read B+ on the other small terminal (Blue wire) with the throttle pedal up.

When you push the throttle pedal down far enough to close the pedal switch, the voltage on the terminal with the blue wire on it should drop to near Zero and the solenoid should click.

If it is only dropping to 29.5 volts while the pack voltage is 36V, either the blue wire is bad, the controller is bad, or the B- cable from the B- terminal on the controller to the main negative terminal on the battery pack is bad.

[sonnysmith]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The controller "Grounds" (Connects B-) the solenoid when the pedal switch closes. (Solenoid activation circuit highlighted on attached schematic.)

B+ gets to one of the solenoid's coil terminals via the Reed switch, Run/Tow switch, F/R switch and Key switch, so you should get full pack voltage on the terminal with the White/yellow and red wires attached when all those switches are closed.

If you do, you will read B+ on the other small terminal (Blue wire) with the throttle pedal up.

When you push the throttle pedal down far enough to close the pedal switch, the voltage on the terminal with the blue wire on it should drop to near Zero and the solenoid should click.

If it is only dropping to 29.5 volts while the pack voltage is 36V, either the blue wire is bad, the controller is bad, or the B- cable from the B- terminal on the controller to the main negative terminal on the battery pack is bad.

Johnnie, are you talking about the blue wire from solenoid the 10 pin connector? If so, It is good and the wire from neg. battery post is good.
So I think I'll try a new alltrex controller.
I'll let everyone know how it goes.
Thanks all

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

Johnnie, are you talking about the blue wire from solenoid the 10 pin connector? If so, It is good and the wire from neg. battery post is good.
So I think I'll try a new alltrex controller.
I'll let everyone know how it goes.
Thanks all

Yes. The blue wire between the solenoid coil terminal and Pin-7 of the 10 pin connector on the controller.

Alltrax designed the DCX line of controllers to replace DCS controllers, so it is Plug-n-Play.
Be sure to tell the vendor it is for a DCS so it comes with the correct Field Map (# 3 for a DCS motor)
Also be sure to upgrade the solenoid too.

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

Thanks for the head up. I maybe getting in over this old head, but I have a few controllers off of some fairplay carts that was given to me. So I'm going to try to use them. I'm in the process of reprogramming them,( lets say trying)
I rechecked all the wires and they are the same. I did hold the pedal down after the motor began to shake and low and behold it ran or tried to. Then shut down. One thing I can't understand. I never hear the solenoid click, But when I remove the wires and ohm it, check open. Any suggestions?
Can a controller do crazy thing? other than just being bad.

Thanks for the great advice

Sonny

[radioman]

Sounds like the solenoid coil is open and the motor is trying to run off the charge stored in the controller through the 475 ohm 10 watt pre charge resistor connected across the solenoid contacts. In this case the resistor will get real hot if you hold the pedal down.

[sonnysmith]

Thanks Radio man I'll look into changing out the solenoid and see if that help before I do anything else. Just about out options. Other than controller.

Sonny

[sonnysmith]

radio man after rereading your post. I'm checking the two big post and they are open not the field coils. I took a jumper wires(2) from pos.and neg off
the batteries and to the coil side of solenoid and it will not click as long as the 10 pin connector is plugged into the controller. When I remove the 10 pin connector, the solenoid works fine.

This is just food for thought.
Sonny

[scottyb]

Try this, remove the blue (or black) wire(s) from the - negative side of the small posts and bring 36v - from the battery pack to the - side of the activation circuit (small posts). the cart may run like this? If it does run normally you can leave it on and run it.