multiple solenoids burning up, quitting Precedent 2008 Gas

[cshrum]

I have looked around here and google with no really good answers. I have had to put on 3 solenoids within about 10 hours of use or so. I am getting the correct replacements. What would cause this. Is there a page that shows how much voltage I need at certain places at certain times like with key on and pedal pressed and running need x amount of voltage. It is 2008 Gas Precedent. Thanks so much. I had thought that my pedal was causing issues because no starting. Just very frustrated. Thanks in advance

[trig123]

Low battery voltage maybe ? have you load tested your battery ? also check you voltage drop and grounds. Cheap product even though I have used them.

[Fairtax4me]

It’s a 12v battery, so 12 is what should be everywhere.
Where are you buying these solenoids? “Correct” replacement doesn’t mean they’re any good. Aftermarket solenoids are known for failure. This is a constant duty solenoid so you can’t just use any ol’ solenoid from the auto parts store.

[meimk]

Pretty simple system. Blue small wire at the solenoid is the + power from the key switch to the solenoid. With the key "on" it should be battery + voltage (12.X). The orange small wire goes to ground when the accelerator pedal is pressed. Pedal up it will have the same voltage as the blue wire, but when the pedal is pressed it will connect to ground - completing the circuit and engaging the solenoid. The larger red wire is battery + into the high current side of the solenoid. The larger white wire carries that power to the starter generator as the solenoid is engaged.
Once the engine starts running the starter generator is being spun faster by the engine and produces power that flow back through the white wire, through the contacts in the solenoid and on to the battery to charge it. The voltage regulator engages the field by grounding - completing the circuit intermittently. Most Club Cars will run at about 15 volts charging with the engine at speed.
My guess would be that either the voltage regulator is allowing the system to overcharge (more than 16 volts) or that the solenoids you've installed were automotive type "starting" solenoids, instead of continuous duty solenoids that a golf cart requires. Remember that because the charging path runs through the solenoid as well that solenoid has to stay engaged all the time the engine is starting & running.

[cshrum]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

It’s a 12v battery, so 12 is what should be everywhere.
Where are you buying these solenoids? “Correct” replacement doesn’t mean they’re any good. Aftermarket solenoids are known for failure. This is a constant duty solenoid so you can’t just use any ol’ solenoid from the auto parts store.

thanks for the response, I got the last one on amazon using the part number, claims to be OEM replacement, but they all did.

[cshrum]

Originally Posted by meimk

Pretty simple system. Blue small wire at the solenoid is the + power from the key switch to the solenoid. With the key "on" it should be battery + voltage (12.X). The orange small wire goes to ground when the accelerator pedal is pressed. Pedal up it will have the same voltage as the blue wire, but when the pedal is pressed it will connect to ground - completing the circuit and engaging the solenoid. The larger red wire is battery + into the high current side of the solenoid. The larger white wire carries that power to the starter generator as the solenoid is engaged.
Once the engine starts running the starter generator is being spun faster by the engine and produces power that flow back through the white wire, through the contacts in the solenoid and on to the battery to charge it. The voltage regulator engages the field by grounding - completing the circuit intermittently. Most Club Cars will run at about 15 volts charging with the engine at speed.
My guess would be that either the voltage regulator is allowing the system to overcharge (more than 16 volts) or that the solenoids you've installed were automotive type "starting" solenoids, instead of continuous duty solenoids that a golf cart requires. Remember that because the charging path runs through the solenoid as well that solenoid has to stay engaged all the time the engine is starting & running.

thanks, I will check later today, I do know that for some reason I have about 10 volts at the smaller wires, blue and red before gas pedal is pressed. I did check it while engine was running, around 14 volts at the battery.

[CP241]

The amazon solenoids are garbage. I've almost burned a cart to the ground when I had one of those fail. Never again...


Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...ub-car-1013609

[cshrum]

This doesn’t look bad to me. But I replaced and it started working again. Now the replacement has quit after 30 mins. Any ideas?

[CP241]

Yeah. Stop buying them from amazon? They're crap

[Fairtax4me]

Coupe things to check.
Voltage at the solenoid positive (blue wire) with cart On and the solenoid engaged. I know that's more difficult to do with a burned out one, but if the voltage there is to low it can possibly cause problems. Should be above about 11v.

Check across the small terminals with an ohmeter. If it reads O.L or ~ ohms it's because the coil has burned out. I see "S and I" marks on that solenoid which usually means it's an automotive type starting solenoid and those are not designed for constant duty.
A golf cart solenoid is designed for constant duty (remains ON all the time when the engine is running) and using a non-constant duty solenoid will result in a burned out coil every time.