Ancient EZGO Textron: sticky clutch and needs more power

[Greg-J]

I picked up a very old EZGO textron a few days ago for $100. I felt bad for the guy selling it, so it's now a shop cart for screwing about. Surprisingly, after cleaning the carb, it runs pretty well for being in such bad shape. I don't know much about it and this is my first gas cart, but I do have some questions.

For reference, the serial # is: 80J2 - 212729. Pictures below.

1. The clutch seems to stick in reverse and does not want to disengage. Forward is fine, it takes a little to rev up enough to engage, but it seems to function okay.
   
   
   • What's involved in fixing/rebuilding the clutch? What is the likely culprit, and the likely solution?
   
   
   
2. When coming to a stop, it takes some time for the motor to wind down. I don't know if this due to bad compression or if the cart is missing some sort of mechanism that helps slow the motor down when you let off the gas completely. Any advice here would be appreciated.
   
   
3. It takes a while to get up to speed and it's generally slow. The limiter has been removed, and I don't think it's slow for the model/year, I just think it's inherently slow. I can get 12-18 mph out of it on relatively flat surface, but I'd like to hit closer to 30-35 and have at least a little torque.
   
   
   • Is this motor worth having a small engine shop rebuild it with a higher compression, or is that a waste of time? If the answer is to get a new motor, I don't want to spend more than $300-$400 on it.
   • What then should I be looking for so that it runs off the current starter/generator and pully with minor fabrication, while still having a reverse?

[Heliarc]

Strange that the clutch would work ok forward but hang up in reverse.Anyhow there's a cover you can remove on the clutch that is on the engine.have a look in there, hit it with some compressed air and maybe some good penetrant oil.The drive clutch can't be serviced as far as I know.The driven clutch I believe can be tore down.But it sounds to me like you've just got some crap in there and it needs to be cleaned out.Might even be just a matter of running it for awhile.

Do you mean it takes time to wind down when your bringing the cart to a stop?If that's the case, the clutches will keep it spinning for a bit.When you let off the gas going down a hill or something and the cart is coasting, the engine is effectively shut off.It's just turning over because the clutches are still spinning and grabbing the drive belt.If you push it from a dead stop, of course they won't do this.

Next, speed.That looks to be a Robin 244cc.If you're getting 18 mph out of it, then you're doing fine for that engine.There's no way it's going to pull 35 mph without some serious mods.It's pretty much designed just to putter around.With a lift kit, and some knobby tires though, they really shine on the trails.10 mph is plenty fast with trees all around.Plus if you get stuck you can generally hoss them out of a hole.

For a bigger engine, and still having reverse, I'm not sure.Perhaps a snowmobile engine with reverse would do it.

[Greg-J]

Thanks a lot for the reply Heliarc.

As for it winding down, I do quite a bit of golfing and some of our courses have gas carts. On a flat surface, if I come to a stop, the motors will wind down somewhat quietly and relatively quickly. With this one, it kind of reminds me of a 4 stroke that isn't timed right and continues to run for a bit after the motor is shut off. Maybe it's fine for this engine.

There's a 400cc Arctic Cat for sale for $80 that I'm considering picking up. It's a pull start, so I'm not so confident I'll be able to hook it up to the starter. Or if I did hook it up, if I could turn it over.

A question about two strokes: Aren't they all capable of going in reverse if I start the motor in reverse? My small engine knowledge isn't that great, so forgive the ignorance, but I can't think of anything that would prevent it from starting in reverse.

[Heliarc]

Yes, a two stroke will run backwards.That's how you get reverse in a golf cart and some sleds.The engine actually runs backwards.It doesn't matter because there's no valve train as a four stroke has.The piston handles all the valving.As long as it's going up and down it doesn't matter which way the crank is moving.Truthfully though, I don't even have reverse on my cart yet.I would of course find it handy as hell, but it doesn't stop me from getting around on it.A cart being used around a shop though, you may really want reverse.

[Greg-J]

Thank you. That's what I thought.

So, personally, do you think the stock starter/generator has enough juice to start the arctic cat 400cc in forward/reverse as it does the standard motor?

[Heliarc]

That, I could not tell you.The Robin engine is a 244cc so you'd be overworking it at the least.If it cranks up pretty quickly you might get away with it.There are sleds that will reverse the engine out there but I think they're fairly modern ones.

[Dave Box]

Are you saying that the drive clutch is closing in reverse but then not opening as you slow down? If so the chances are that it just hasn't been used in a while and it will free up eventually.

12 - 18 mph is PDG for the 2PG engine running on those little wheels. An easy fix for more speed is to install a lift kit and then fit bigger tires which will over gear the engine and get you in the low 20's. 30 - 35 mph? With all due respect that is a convoluted way to commit suicide. Those carts have rear wheel only brakes designed to bring you to a gradual halt from 12 mph on a nicely manicured golf fairway.

Yes those little 2PG engines do tend to wind down gently that's just the way they are. You are probably used to a twin cylinder 4 stroke which is a different beast.

If you wanted to change the engine people have just moved the clutch and the starter to the new engine. You can then use the bigger snow mobile 2 stroke engine and still have reverse gear. (Yes the 2 stroke runs in reverse to make the cart run in reverse). Again I would urge caution in making your cart more powerful that the brakes, steering and suspension can handle.

Within your $300 - $400 budget you could purchase the complete engine rebuild kit and have a new engine but if you are getting 12 - 18 mph then you are already doing very well. The acid test is to put a compression tester on it and see where you are. The higher the better but anything over 100 psi is good.

Finally, did you remove the air filter before you took the photographs? Without an air filter all the dust and grit you suck up is going around your crankshaft and bearings before it makes its way into your cylinder.

Good luck

Dave

[Greg-J]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. It's much appreciated.

As for speed, It's one of those situations that if I can get 30+mph out of the cart, I'll likely cut it up and put a quad front-end on it to get better suspension/handling/breaking and go to town. I've got an elec. for golf, so this is just for screwing about.

I'm more interested in producing more torque. My shop mates and I have built a wheeled luge (safety handles, restraints, etc) that we tow behind my elec. in a large, empty, flat parking lot. It's loads of fun, but even that slow cart pulls 2 lateral G's on a good swing and the 36v cart just doesn't have the torque to combat 400 lbs. of force.

So, as goofy as it sounds: I'd really like to be able to swing a 200 lb. man around and have enough torque to stay the course.

I scored a 400c Arctic Cat for $80 and it looks to be in very good condition. I'm re-jetting it for warm weather and then transplanting it.


As for the air filter, it was taken off to make taking off the carb and fuel-pump easier as they both needed some cleaning (no idea how long this thing sat). It's back on now.


Lastly, is this cart a 1980 "marathon"?

[Greg-J]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. It's much appreciated.

As for speed, It's one of those situations that if I can get 30+mph out of the cart, I'll likely cut it up and put a quad front-end on it to get better suspension/handling/breaking and go to town. I've got an elec. for golf, so this is just for screwing about.

I'm more interested in producing more torque. My shop mates and I have built a wheeled luge (safety handles, restraints, etc) that we tow behind my elec. in a large, empty, flat parking lot. It's loads of fun, but even that slow cart pulls 2 lateral G's on a good swing and the 36v cart just doesn't have the torque to combat 400 lbs. of force.

So, as goofy as it sounds: I'd really like to be able to swing a 200 lb. man around and have enough torque to stay the course.

I scored a 400c Arctic Cat for $80 and it looks to be in very good condition. I'm re-jetting it for warm weather and then transplanting it.


As for the air filter, it was taken off to make taking off the carb and fuel-pump easier as they both needed some cleaning (no idea how long this thing sat). It's back on now.


Lastly, is this cart a 1980 "marathon"?

[BrewCityMusic]

you are correct, per the serial number and pics you've got a 1980 Marathon cart. As to another idea RE torque, fitting a shorter (roughly 1") drive belt on the cart will significantly alter the clutch ratios and give you a noticable difference in takeoff speed as well as hill-climbing (IE Torque) with only a minimal difference in top end speed. My '88 has a basically stock (.050 over) 244cc 2PG and is set up with 22X11 tires and a lift, with the stock drive belt I was flirting with 23mph on the flats, with the shorter belt I have a LOT more climbing and takeoff power, yet still hold a steady 21mph on the GPS.

One thought though, if you DO end up fitting the cart with larger tires, you'd best look at either a larger rim/smaller tire combo or 4-6ply sidewall tires at a minimum - these carts weren't designed for a ton of lateral stability and I can tell you from experience that 2 wheel cornering is QUITE common (not to mention quite unnerving) once you get these carts up over that factory 12mph, especially on larger skins. Start trying to compensate for a 400+lb lateral pull and chances are good the cart will end up riding YOU