1990 EZGO fuel/HEI ignition problem

[2 STROKING]

I have a 1990 EZGO that recently caught fire in the engine compartment. The sheet metal over the muffler was missing on the bottom of the seat and the plywood and insulation caught fire so I decided to do a complete rebuild on the cart. Not knowing what all caused it to run hot ie: lean condition, plugged exhaust ect ect. So I tore it down and started fresh. Since then I converted it over to HEI ignition, new stock piston rings, new fuel pump, new crank bearings, crank seals, rebuilt carb, new fuel lines, new siphon tube for fuel tank as old one melted, removed oil injection system and plugged off intake, all wiring replaced and microswitches, and accelerator and choke cable, plus cut apart the muffler and cleaned it, then rewelded and 2 new belts. I think this just about covers it. However since this all was done it is now not running up to full RPM and has developed a miss in the mid to top end of RPM. The throttle is opening 100% as I have tried to run it without the linkage attached and used my hand to open carb. I have replaced the fuel lines again to make sure there was no restictions, pulled fuel pump again and checked gasket and diaphrams. I am running a NGK BP5HS spark plug. I am sure there is more that I have done I just can't think of it now. Any ideas on what to do next? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brad

[mcdave71]

If the spark is working good which I think it might, I would think it might be running lean? Did your hand over the carb make any difference?

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I agree with the lean condition, I just can prove it yet. I did not pull the breather tube off and cut down the air flow with my hand, but I did use the choke to restrict the amount of air. This did not seem to have any impact on the situation. I did pull the carb again today and made sure the float and needle were set correctly. I still need to tach the engine and see where I am at. Any idea on what WOT rpm should be?

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Just a thought, this problem did not exist prior to rebuild. I have a good spark. When I had the fly wheel off to replace the seal, the pulser coil was tight and not loose, so I am just assuming the timing is fine. What would happen if I had installed one or both of the piston rings upside down?

[racin161]

You might have it and is the port facing the intake or carb ??? If you had any problems installing the rings there Wrong. You should have been able to compress the rings using your fingers also did you check the ring end gap???

LOU

[2 STROKING]

Originally Posted by racin161

You might have it and is the port facing the intake or carb ??? If you had any problems installing the rings there Wrong. You should have been able to compress the rings using your fingers also did you check the ring end gap???

LOU

Thank you for the reply.
Piston was loaded in the correct direction for the port and I was able to compress the rings with my fingers to load the piston. The gaps were lined up on the pins. I am just to the point of second guessing everything I have done.

My next step will be to pull the intake and look at the reed cage and gaskets.

Any other ideas?

[vince362291]

you said you did the HEI conversion I assume you followed the sticky on this site I had the same problem try switching the wires on the modual (the ones that go to the pulser) around

[vince362291]

second thought just looked at the pics when I did mine the pulsar wires were on the right side of the mod

[2 STROKING]

Originally Posted by vince362291

you said you did the HEI conversion I assume you followed the sticky on this site I had the same problem try switching the wires on the modual (the ones that go to the pulser) around

Yes I followed the post the Ron Man put together. It was well documented and others who posted in the thread had some good ideas too. I have not tried switching the wires around since it is running and the wires all match the schematic. However as a last resort I can do that to see what happens.

[2 STROKING]

Well it's now running like a raped ape. Started with switching out just the GM coil to the stock coil. No difference at all, so I went ahead and swapped the ignitor leads still not better. Removed the HEI Ignitor and everything is back to normal. And to top it off, it is really quite now. There was a little bit of engine noise before switching back and it evidently was spark knock as it is gone now. I did not even notice it before now. So I am going to continue to try a figure out where the problem is at as I really would like to get away from the stock ignition.