EZ-GO clutch adjustment & idle speed

[kzunell]

I am using a stock EZ-GO clutch on a 16hp clone from Max Tools. The clutch is engaging at idle after a few seconds. Is there a way to lower the idle on the engine enough to prevent this or can I adjust the clutch/add spring tension to cause the clutch to engage at a slightly higher RPM?

Thanks

[stinger5]

Originally Posted by kzunell

I am using a stock EZ-GO clutch on a 16hp clone from Max Tools. The clutch is engaging at idle after a few seconds. Is there a way to lower the idle on the engine enough to prevent this or can I adjust the clutch/add spring tension to cause the clutch to engage at a slightly higher RPM?

Thanks

I assume from your post that you want the cart to idle ? If so, there is an idle adjustment screw on the carb right behind the throttle butterfly actuator arm. You might try backing it off a little to lower the idle speed. Other than that, I'd have to say that your belt is a little tight. Any room for adjustment ?

[kzunell]

Yes need the cart to idle. I have a Cushman industrial that has a key start not a pedal start. I will see if I can adjust the idle down a few hundred RPMs so the clutch won't start engaging. The rear axle has the forward neutral reverse gear box on it. If I leave the cart in neutral the clutch will tighten after a few seconds and grab the belt. The belt has about 3 inches of deflection with the motor not running. I was thinking that having a bit more spring pressure in the clutch would cause the clutch to engage at a higher RPM.

[stinger5]

Originally Posted by kzunell

Yes need the cart to idle. I have a Cushman industrial that has a key start not a pedal start. I will see if I can adjust the idle down a few hundred RPMs so the clutch won't start engaging. The rear axle has the forward neutral reverse gear box on it. If I leave the cart in neutral the clutch will tighten after a few seconds and grab the belt. The belt has about 3 inches of deflection with the motor not running. I was thinking that having a bit more spring pressure in the clutch would cause the clutch to engage at a higher RPM.

Tom at CPP seems to be the man everyone turns to for clutch help and I have read of the "torque" or "power" spring he supplies. Perhaps a word with him on the phone will help ? Sorry I can't be of more assistance but my cart experience is limited to pedal start.

[sho305]

If it has a spring in the drive clutch (on the engine) sure you can put a longer spring in or just shim that one. Sometimes you can stretch them some, but anyway the length will determine, longer is higher engagement. You might put a 1/8" ring/washer behind the spring and try it. The spring on the secondary has nothing to do with it.

The idle can be lowered until the compression release kicks in. You might loosen the valve lash and get it a little lower. To adjust the idle mix I had to cut a slot in the screw (right next to the intake spacer) with a dremel then heat it with a solder gun to release the locktite, then get it out. On ebay you can buy a rebuild kit for $14 with a new one. Then you can set the mixture for a better idle and starting, screw the epa.

Note if you have a new belt they are sticky and will grab badly, some wear and dust will cure that. But if the clutch moves in then it moves in, have to try lower idle or mods to it.

[kzunell]

I looked on the CPP website and they have a clutch spring for my clutch designed for keystart and to increase initial clutch engagement. This seems to be exactly what I need so I ordered it and it should be here tomorrow. By they are quick over at CPP! It seems if I run into a problem CPP or BGW has an answer..lol.

[kzunell]

OK replaced stock spring in clutch with the one from CPP. If I start it and don't rev the motor the clutch will stay out and it will idle in neutral or in gear just fine. If I drive it around and stop and leave it in gear it will idle, but if I try to change between forward and reverse it will grind if I do it slowly. when I shut off the motor the clutch will snap open as the motor stops. I think the clutch is just sticking a bit. The clutch was rusted stuck when I got it and I sprayed everything with rust cleaner. It seemed to be moving fine but now I am thinking it might be just not quite releasing right. is it probably the nylon bushing on the moving sheave? The chrome shaft seems fine and smooth is it possible the nylon swelled up at some point? would it be ok to very very lightly hone the nylon with a brake cylinder hone or perhaps with some emery cloth?? should I take the weights apartand clean the ramps? or would that only be for closing the clutch onto the belt?
Thanks

[sho305]

I mostly do yamaha and they have a grease fitting for it, but use brass bushings in there. I would recommend any clutch be taken apart and cleaned well when you get an older cart, and lube the parts that move such as bushings and pins. You don't want any extra lube in there collecting dirt however, but most cart clutches are closed up to stay clean. I'd say you need to find out why it is sticking and fix that you will be good. The weights fly out to grab the belt with more rpm, but they need to swing back in so they can't bind or they will not. If it has rollers make sure they don't have flat spots on them. I'd try to polish the metal before nylon, unless the nylon has rust embedded in it or is deformed somehow, scratched, etc.