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Old 01-08-2016, 03:09 PM   #11
Sergio
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

Normally we ask folks to start a new thread so not to confuse issues, but since both of these questions are related and both reference Precedent carts, I will try to answer it here.

First of all, If either one of You does not fully understand what is going on with the +48v and +12v power, stop and study the diagrams until You understand it, otherwise You can cause a lot of damage to your cart.

The negative power to the "bucket harness" and the converter is provided by a 10ga black wire that is connected to the Controller B- (bullet connector).

The 10ga Blue wire that comes off the "bucket harness" can be connected to either:
+12v output of Your converter, in case the converter is installed on the back of the cart (or battery bucket area).

+48v pack positive in case the converter is installed in the factory location on the front of the cart.
If You install the converter on the back, You will also need a switched +48v power source for the converter "trigger" wire. You can use the Blue wire off the solenoid coil (quick connector or small post).

If You install the converter on the front of the cart, it gets a little tricky as You need to make sure the +48v on the Blue wire only goes to the input of the converter, and then the +12v output of the converter feeds the actual "dash harness".

Both the 48v and 12v connections share the same negative, never use the frame to "ground" anything.

As far as the Digital Voltage display, both Precedents provide a Black/Yellow wire on the dash for the negative side.

The +48v positive side can come from either side of the key switch depending if You want it always ON (Green wire) or only when the Key switch is ON (Blue wire).
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Old 01-08-2016, 03:39 PM   #12
geonjay
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

This is GREAT info, thank you very much! I see that you're in Charlotte, I'm just south of you in Rock Thrill
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Old 01-08-2016, 06:29 PM   #13
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

i assume the harness be taken out of the picture and directly wired to the reducer + and -
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:31 AM   #14
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by -Kevlar- View Post
i assume the harness be taken out of the picture and directly wired to the reducer + and -
Yes You could wire it directly.

I noticed I forgot to post the wiring diagram that would have answered/confirmed your questions.

It also shows You how to connect the 48v-12v converter when installed on the front of the Precedent cart.

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Old 01-09-2016, 04:16 PM   #15
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

I poked around in the dash with my meter today. I found a red and black wire pair that is carrying 48v unswitched. I had to hurry so I didn't get a chance to trace it back to bucket harness. I'll do that later
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Old 01-09-2016, 06:52 PM   #16
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

thanks a bunch sergio!
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Old 01-09-2016, 10:09 PM   #17
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

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Originally Posted by geonjay View Post
I poked around in the dash with my meter today. I found a red and black wire pair that is carrying 48v unswitched. I had to hurry so I didn't get a chance to trace it back to bucket harness. I'll do that later
Those are the factory wires for an always ON meter connection.

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Old 01-09-2016, 10:20 PM   #18
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
Those are the factory wires for an always ON meter connection.

Thanks for the clarification. I was debating on if those could be used for one of the switched voltage reducers if I chose to place it in the dash. Use the negative from that black wire, and the positive could come from the switched side of the key - as you mentioned earlier.

Also, I'm still confused about the current light kit wiring. The negative is coming from the OEM provided blue wire (located on the + terminal of battery #4 - the one that provides the - side of the battery pack to the cart) and the positive is coming from the + terminal of battery #1 - doesn't that add up to 36 Volts? Is there some magic going on in the controller that steps the voltage down? When I tested what's going across the light switch it's, as expected, 12v. I really appreciate your patience with this...you've helped me a LOT already!
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Old 12-09-2021, 05:32 PM   #19
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by geonjay View Post
Thanks for the clarification. I was debating on if those could be used for one of the switched voltage reducers if I chose to place it in the dash. Use the negative from that black wire, and the positive could come from the switched side of the key - as you mentioned earlier.

Also, I'm still confused about the current light kit wiring. The negative is coming from the OEM provided blue wire (located on the + terminal of battery #4 - the one that provides the - side of the battery pack to the cart) and the positive is coming from the + terminal of battery #1 - doesn't that add up to 36 Volts? Is there some magic going on in the controller that steps the voltage down? When I tested what's going across the light switch it's, as expected, 12v. I really appreciate your patience with this...you've helped me a LOT already!
Digging up this thread. I have a 2010 Precedent that also has this setup above (blue wire to a battery negative, and the red wire to the pack positive). So that seems like 36v to me too. This came stock on the Precedent, as it was purchased new in 2010 from Club Car.

Has anyone figured out why this is? Is there a stock OEM reducer somewhere to get the voltage down for the lights (front light, rear lights, etc)?

Added photo below.
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Old 12-10-2021, 02:27 PM   #20
jl47
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Default Re: 2010 CC Precedent Light Kit - Wiring to aftermarket reducer

Aren't T-875 batteries 8 volts? That looks like 48V to me - not 36V.
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