Possible Bad Microswitch in ITS?

[tlr6334]

I have the exact same problem except alltrax flashes red when petal is fully applied.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by tlfinn

Is there as such a thing as an upgraded ITS? Since I upgraded the controller and Solenoid...might as well if Im replacing stuff

No upgrade, the ITS is usually a bombproof device. Water is it's nemesis. It's supposed to be sealed but I have seen some units crack where water could intrude.

[tlfinn]

Ok so I soldered the inline connectors...so thats done.

I checked the voltage between the 2 throttle wires..White and black....0..zero...nothing...switch on..FNR in forward..pedal pressed ...still zero
it has to be the ITS....checking the voltage between those wires is a way to test it ..correct?

[JohnnieB]

Unless the controller is powered up (LED flashes green four times and then goes to steady green) there won't be any voltage between those wires (Black and White).


The ITS sensor receives voltage from the controller. An Alltrax controller (SR, SPM, XCT, DCX, AXE, Etc., Etc., Ect.) feeds the ITS sensor from a constant current source and the further the pedal inserts the metal plunger into the ITS sensor the more amps it tries to draw (impedance decreases), so in order to maintain a constant current, the voltage applied is decreased and the net result is 10V between the black and white wires when the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click and 6V when pedal is on floor.

[JohnnieB]

FWIW: If you connect the SR controller to a computer via a USB cable, the electronics in will power up enough to see if there are any error codes on the Toolkit monitor screen.

It won't pass amps to motor, but I'm pretty sure the throttle circuit is powered up.

[tlfinn]

OK so I took the ITS sensor out and I am not getting continuity between the 2 spades. I'm assuming I should....??

Also I noticed that when the Controller powers up I get the 4 green blinks and then steady green light....I press the pedal to the floor and it goes orange.

so is the ITS sensor working ??

[JohnnieB]

There is a diode bridge circuit between the two terminals on the ITS sensor, so you probably won't measure any resistance with the Ohmmeter function of a DMM because the voltage applied by the Ohms function is too low to forward bias a diode and go through the resistors and ICs in the circuit. (Schematic attached.)

Going to amber does mean the ITS is working.

[tlfinn]

Dag on....I thought I was on it...I guess the only think to do is go back to the controller and hook it up like you recommended....Will it show any errors if the lights are the correct colors (green to orange)?

[JohnnieB]

Reviewing this thread, it appears that you have a series drive. If so, it sounds like the solenoid, the controller and the ITS are functioning normally.

Therefore the problem is in the high current circuit, the F/R switch and the motor being the most likely suspects.

Lift rear tires off ground and put on jackstands.
Connect your DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
With a direction selected on F/R and the key turned on, press pedal just far enough to make solenoid click.
The voltage between B- and M- should be the same as between the battery packs main positive and main negative terminals.

If not, measure the voltage on the four studs on the F/R. All four should have a voltage. If not the F/R is bad.

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If you do get battery pack voltage between B- and M-. press pedal to floor and the voltage ought to decrease to near zero. If it does, either the motor is bad or you ought to be seeing smoke coming from something.

[tlfinn]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Reviewing this thread, it appears that you have a series drive. If so, it sounds like the solenoid, the controller and the ITS are functioning normally.

Therefore the problem is in the high current circuit, the F/R switch and the motor being the most likely suspects.

Lift rear tires off ground and put on jackstands.
Connect your DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
With a direction selected on F/R and the key turned on, press pedal just far enough to make solenoid click.
The voltage between B- and M- should be the same as between the battery packs main positive and main negative terminals.

If not, measure the voltage on the four studs on the F/R. All four should have a voltage. If not the F/R is bad.

----------
If you do get battery pack voltage between B- and M-. press pedal to floor and the voltage ought to decrease to near zero. If it does, either the motor is bad or you ought to be seeing smoke coming from something.

WHOAAAA!! hahahaha i hope i dont!! Cool I will check this out tonight..

Hey Johnnie B...I just wanted to take a minute to thank you for all you do to help people on this site. I know alot of folks can easily afford to take it to a shop and have it fixed, but there is alot of US that just can't or really enjoy fixing things on their own and with your help are able to keep riding. I know many many others on this site can echo this same thought. Thanks again for taking your time to help other folks...that kind of stuff comes back around. Thanks!!!!