01-23-2017, 04:39 PM | #11 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
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Re: DC-DC Converter
Thanks Sergio and Patela2oh, great information. I wasn't familiar with the terminology of Cold and Hot sides as I had normally just referred to them as switched or unswitched power so now it makes a lot of sense.
I like your bus bar Patela2oh and your fuse box. I was going to use a plastic terminal block for a similar arrangement but the bus bar arrangement looks very professional. |
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01-25-2017, 11:13 AM | #12 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 264
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Quote:
It looked pretty till I got everything in there... and then it turned into a rats nest. Amazon nice and cheap. Also a lot of people have had room under the seat to mount the bar / fuse box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01-26-2017, 02:45 AM | #13 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
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Re: DC-DC Converter
Based on the advice I have been given so far I have amended my diagram to include the pearls of wisdom. I am reproducing it here in case it is of help to someone else. The circuit allows the accessories to be switched on only when required but the connection to the key switch means they will never be left on inadvertently.
The attached photo is of the converter in place, again based on Sergio's (and other's) advice, mounted high on the chassis in the front. The photo is taken looking in over the front wheel. |
01-27-2017, 07:52 PM | #14 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 264
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Quote:
Perfect! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01-28-2017, 03:08 AM | #15 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
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Re: DC-DC Converter
OK I've been forced to consider a mod 1.
The 12V switch I was using was not up to the task and started to smoke (interestingly the LED was happily shining on). I looked through my switches and had a toggle switch rated at 125VAC and 5A. According to the Mouser catalogue a switch that can handle 125VAC can also handle 48VDC so I swapped the switch for that one. When I tested it out it was fine with no sign of overheating. Because it is not a lit switch it only has the two terminals so I have modified my diagram to show it instead. BTW it took me ages to get my wires from the battery pack (and lights) forward through the cable channel under the floor mat because I didn't want to have to dismantle any of the rear bodywork to get to where the loom went. I persevered and eventually got there. Photo 1 below shows where I have mounted the relay (on the bottom of the front panel) and the switch. It also shows the terminal block I am using to distribute the 12VDC (only a few connections so far). Photo 2 shows the connections at the battery pack. The positive attaches directly to the battery post and the negative attaches to the provided negative cable with the yellow female bullet connector. Everything works as it should. Thanks to all who contributed to my meagre knowledge. Many years ago I was a High School maths and science teacher so I do have some knowledge but it's always good to learn from the experts. |
01-29-2017, 08:28 AM | #16 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
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Re: DC-DC Converter
I had the cart out on the golf course today and charged my phone at the same time. Everything worked perfectly and there was no sign of any problems with the switch or the converter.
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01-30-2017, 09:25 PM | #17 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,354
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Re: DC-DC Converter
Dude! I have got to know what accessories you've got on your cart to have ALL of that wiring?
Holy cow! |
02-02-2017, 09:30 AM | #18 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 264
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Quote:
I've got a build log with tons of pictures in the members rides section, Project Totally Unnecessary I think. I was planning for the future and have 3 unused switches, but audio, headlights, gauge lights, speaker lights, gauge power Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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