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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 07-20-2019, 04:24 PM   #1
canorwood
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Default 1995 Ez Go Medalist Sepex DCS Stopped Working

Ok where to start.

First of all I have been troubleshooting my car for several weeks without any luck. I have read through several post multiple times in hope of troubleshooting myself and not wasting and ones time. I have been on several threads looking at wiring diagrams and trying to follow through with the trouble shooting flow diagrams but with little success because it seems that there is always something that doe not match either the wiring diagram or troubleshooting guide and I'm not sure if this is because of in between models are what have you.

So here is where I am before I set fire to my Cart.

I currently have a Brand new set of batteries fully charged and are reporting 37.9 volts. (Rechecked and is now 38.14)

I suspect that my controller is out but I am not sure what voltage should be coming out of my controller for my wiring setup so If I could find that that would be a great start.

I tried to follow the trouble shooting guide Chapter E but am at a standstill when I get to step 8 as my two red wires are not connected to the small terminal of the solenoid but rather to the inside larger post of the Solenoid. So Im not sure if this is a problem but since it is not a 100% match it deters me from going to the next step as I am not sure if I should answer yes or no. But all the previous steps I was able to follow and answer.

At first I thought this was an incorrect setup but confirmed it with a members post that had posted a diagram of the "DCS - Later Style F/R Switch". I confirmed it it that my Red Wires are properly connected per the diagram, which leads me to believe that there must be an equivalent troubleshooting flow for this style switch.

So with this said let me mention what I have done so far.

Replaced the Ignition switch because it had a lot of corrosion on it and wanted to eliminate this as a fault. The old switch did seem that it had a dead spot in it and let is why I replaced it.

I also found in the ignition wire a chaffed wire and it was almost cut into so I replaced the wire all together to eliminate any problems later.

Checked continuity in all wires in the circuit - Good
Checked forward and reverse micro-switch for operation and continuity. - Good
Checked pedal micro-switch - Good
Checked Resistor in between solenoid post. - Good
Check Reed Switch - Suspect that this was modified somehow. Appears to be an inline fuse now, not sure its not translucent so it not see through. Either way there is power from there and the cart worked before this point and I have not done anything to that area so that should not be a factor.

I can tell you this. I have not yet got my solenoid to click since it broke down. I have put 3 solenoids in it by now.

Something keeps telling me it is the controller that is just fried. But I really don't want to buy a controller for $200 and find out that something in my wiring will burn it up. So I'm trying to isolate the problem before doing so.

If there was instructions to determine which voltage should be coming out of the controller this should help me trouble shoot.

I also went on you tube to see how I could test my motor but I failed there. Motor didn't run on the 12 volt check and I wasn't sure If I should try a full 36 volt test. I didn't want to burn anything up. I can tell you this. I did check for continuity on the motor to make sure it wasn't grounded out. I'm not sure what the instructions called this check but it did check ok.

So here is where I'm at. At a loss.

Is there any test of what the actual voltage numbers should be coming out of the controller?
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Last edited by canorwood; 07-20-2019 at 08:12 PM.. Reason: Listed wrong voltage in my question.
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:17 PM   #2
JohnnieB
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Default Re: 1995 Ez Go Medalist Sepex DCS Stopped Working

Your batteries are only about 90% SoC (State of Charge) SoC chart attached.

Also attached is a schematic with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted. All wires in red ought to have full battery pack voltage on them.

If you have pack voltage on all them and the solenoid does not click, the controller is most likely bad.

The DCS controller (Curtis 1206SX) was a failed design. It has no low under-voltage protection and is a high failure item, so replace it with an Alltrax XCT48400-DCS rather than a rebuilt/repaired 1206SX.
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File Type: jpg JohnnieB's SoC Chart.JPG (66.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Wiring Diagram - DCS - No Reverse Diode -KSI Traced.JPG (94.7 KB, 0 views)
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:10 PM   #3
canorwood
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Default Re: 1995 Ez Go Medalist Sepex DCS Stopped Working

Thank you. I have meter checked all wiring in red and got 38.14 volts. I guess my next step is to purchase the recommended controller. I did price it but is it protected against under voltage like you mentioned the DCS controller lacks? I wouldn’t want to burn it up. It’s pretty expensive.

By the way your post did trigger me to go recheck pack voltage. I miss reported it earlier. (It is 38.14)
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Old 07-21-2019, 07:53 AM   #4
binder49
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Default Re: 1995 Ez Go Medalist Sepex DCS Stopped Working

When you upgrade the controller. You should also upgrade to a heavy duty solenoid.
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Old 07-21-2019, 06:18 PM   #5
JohnnieB
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Default Re: 1995 Ez Go Medalist Sepex DCS Stopped Working

Quote:
Originally Posted by canorwood View Post
Thank you. I have meter checked all wiring in red and got 38.14 volts. I guess my next step is to purchase the recommended controller. I did price it but is it protected against under voltage like you mentioned the DCS controller lacks? I wouldn’t want to burn it up. It’s pretty expensive.

By the way your post did trigger me to go recheck pack voltage. I miss reported it earlier. (It is 38.14)
The XCT has user programmable low voltage cutoff and many other user adjustable parameters.

The attached shows some of them.

Also, the outputs have short circuit protection.
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